e46 no start question

[Josh (PA)]

Hoping for a little guidance on an issue w/ the e46 wagon.

Up until yesterday all was good. My daughter drove to school, when she got in to come home she turned the key and nothing at the starter. All the dash lights and electricals functioned seemingly fine, but no clicking, no cranking etc. I told her to leave it there, and get a ride home.

Today, I go over and start poking it hoping my magic finger will fix it. I start by checking batt voltage at the battery, fuses and jumper site at the engine. All are good. I then cycle the transmission from P to N hoping if it is the transmission switch, it will see N and start, but no luck. I check that the EWS is seeing the key by locking / unlocking, putting the key in and listening for the beep and all seems good. I then pull the bottom of the steering column off and jiggle the ignition switch and it starts. Yay me, problem solved. Feeling super successful, I shut it off and wait a second. I turn the key and VROOOMMM it starts again. I'm awesome, I leave the key for my daughter and go home. 20 mins later she's out of school and calling me the car won't start... SOB. She gets a ride home.

I get a ride back to school and start working again. This time I pay a little more attention to the ignition switch. I check voltage at the blue/black wire and every time the key is turned I get 12V, but no start. I check every fuse that has anything to do with starting and no issues, all good. I keep futzing with the steering column, switching the trans from P to N, etc. and randomly the car starts. I brought it home and put it in the garage so I can fiddle with it some more. When I turned it off, it started right back up. I just let it sit for 5 mins and tried again. On the first turn - nothing. On the second turn start.

I'd like some suggestions from the smart ones here. I think (HOPE) it is the ignition switch. The thing that throws me off is seeing +12V every time the switch is turned. I've read if the switch is bad, that will be 0v. Does anyone know if the starter switch can be bad and still show power when the key is turned. I've read when the switch is faulty, there are lots of other odd gremlins, which i've seen none of.

If I hear a beep when the key is in, does that mean the EWS is working fine? Are there other things I should check to be sure it isn't the immobilizer having a hard time w/ the key (I only have 1 key for the car). EDIT: When the key is in the run position, i can hear a faint buzzing in the engine bay, which I am assuming is my fuel pump. EWS should disable fuel pump too, right?

I hope it isn't the starter ( I intentionally left this for last). I haven't opened up the underside of the car yet to see if that is getting voltage, but will if I have to. It sounds like this will be the hardest/most expensive of the possible root causes. What is the easiest way to access it? Can I get to it from the top? (I'll google, but know John and Nick are E46 experts) Any suggestions?

Thanks

[kognito]

fuel pump in my 2001 E46 was in (or near) the gas tank.

got nothing for your no start though, good luck

[Nick M3]

I'd want to look first at the shifter start interlock, based on that behavior. Also, do you have a second key?

[Terri Kennedy]

Originally Posted by Josh (PA)

Hoping for a little guidance on an issue w/ the e46 wagon.

If there's an independent shop near you with the right BMW diagnostic equipment, this should be very easy to pin down.

If there isn't one nearby, I could probably make it down to you (assuming PA) at some point (probably not for a week or so) with my notebook and portable diagnostics. I can check:

Central Locking Status
Current Key Number 
DME Wire Status
Key Disabled 
Key Identification
Key Password 
Key Random Code
Key Transmits 
Onboard Computer Code 
Selector Lever / Clutch Switch 
Started Enabled
Starter Motor Blocked 
Starter Motor Blocked Due to BC Code
Starter Motor Blocked Due to Double-Lock 
Starter Motor Blocked Due to P/N
Terminal R

Of course, after that it still needs to get fixed, but you'll know where to throw money (parts).

[Josh (PA)]

Thanks for the responses. This is getting more confusing. I'm about to call it as over my head and take it to my mechanic. The only thing I've ruled out so far is the ignition switch.

Yesterday afternoon, it started about 20 times in a row. Then no start and now no start. That points to a starter going bad and having a spot(s) where it won't energize. It does not "click" when it is in no start condition. Everytime I put the key in everything energizes, I can hear fuel pumps, etc. From reading, that suggests I'm good for EWS (again starter). I can switch from P to N and the display on the dash shows the right transmission setting.

I only have 1 key unfortunately. I pulled the codes using Carly and had the below:
13. Body:
<--------------------------->
Elektronische Fahrzeug-Immobilisierung:
- Fault: Wrong key ID
- Code: 000030
- Fault: incorrect password
- Code: 000031
- Fault: Changing Code
- Code: 000033
- Fault: Power On Reset at diagnosis warm reset
- Code: 00000F

I cleared them and they don't come back on re-start.

[Nick M3]

I am close to 100% certain that your starter is fine.

[Nick M3]

And given the key codes, I'd be much more inclined to say that your key is dying. Fuel pump is under the back seat. Buzzing in the engine bay is *not* the pump.

The fact that the ignition switch is producing a signal also implies EWS locking the car down. IIRC, you'll get power out of the ignition switch and EWS would intercept. At least, that's how it's wired in E36es.

[Josh (PA)]

Thanks Nick. I'll pull the EWS and see if it is sending voltage to the starter Solenoid.

Edit: I just dug out the EWS module and get good voltage to the unit when the key is turned (blue/black wire), but the black wire that i think leads to the starter give no power. Seems like I am narrowing it down (but, EWS with only 1 key might be an even bigger issue... ugg).

[Nick M3]

Ideally, you'd pull codes after another no start and get more key codes. Although if you only have one key, it might be worth just getting a second on spec regardless.

[Josh (PA)]

Originally Posted by Nick M3

Ideally, you'd pull codes after another no start and get more key codes. Although if you only have one key, it might be worth just getting a second on spec regardless.

It looks like you're right. A few more starts and lots more no starts, key code returns after the good starts. On no starts, I get a good +12v signal from the ignition switch and transmission P/N switch into the EWS but no voltage out to the starter.

I've put a call into dealership parts for a new metal valet key to confirm. Thanks for the input.