New snow wheels

[zach]

Originally Posted by JST

I'd recommend a set of the non-staggered 17s that came on the '95 M3, actually, if you can find them. I had those for my track wheels when I had the ZHP; I sold my set for $400ish, IIRC.

Check craigslist.

Here are a couple of options:

OEM M Contours, probably too expensive:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/pts/830854855.html

Aftermarket wheels, cheap but kind of ugly:

http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/pts/833915047.html

Thanks. I like the look of the Contours but I'd want unstaggered. I'll look around for the M doublespokes or whatever they're called. I do recall a C&D article about the 95 M3 in which they suffered a number of bent wheels though.

[JST]

Originally Posted by zcasavant

Thanks. I like the look of the Contours but I'd want unstaggered. I'll look around for the M doublespokes or whatever they're called. I do recall a C&D article about the 95 M3 in which they suffered a number of bent wheels though.

You know what they say about wheels: Cheap, light, strong. Pick two.

[zach]

Originally Posted by JST

You know what they say about wheels: Cheap, light, strong. Pick two.

I'll take cheap and strong please.

[lupinsea]

Not sure about the BMW world but the AL wheels are preferable in the Jeep and offroading world, though there are two lines of thought:

The Steel wheels do ok, and they're cheap. But they dent and bend more easily than the AL wheel in offroad conditions (which I'd argue are probably more strenuous and damaging to wheels than rutted snowy roads). However, IF you do bend one, you can usually pound it out again with a BFH. They tend to be a bit heavier and can be more difficult to balance with larger tires (though, I doubt this would be an issue for you). And visually not as nice looking.

The aluminum wheels are lighter and actually stronger than steel and don't really bend like the steel which means they keep a good bead that doesn't leak air better. Plus they balance better. And if you rub them up against something (rocks, curb) they'll gouge but not necessarily dent . . . again, keeping a good bead.

So . . .

Steel
Cheaper, a bit heavier, dents more easily but can be fixed more easily with a BFH, and harder to balance, and doesn't look as nice.

Aluminum
Lighter, holds up to rock rash better, doesn't dent or deform as easily, actually stronger as a wheel, balance better, but cost more and can't field repair.

I realize this probably won't help you much, other than possibly suggesting a cheap aluminum rim might be preferable to a cheap steel rim. Unless you carry a BFH with you for field repairs.

[zach]

Originally Posted by stuka

My MIL has a set from her 325xi E46, Blizzak but they are 16."

I think it's in the for sale section here somewhere.

EDIT: Found it

205/55QR-16 Bridgestone Blizzak REVO 1
16X7 Sport Edition F6 Silver

Four wheels and tires, used less than 6K miles.

Thanks, but I'm pretty sure I want 17s.

[wdc330i]

Originally Posted by zcasavant

Thanks, but I'm pretty sure I want 17s.

16s won't clear your brakes.

[zach]

Originally Posted by wdc330i

16s won't clear your brakes.

Another reason to go with 17s then.

[Nick M3]

Originally Posted by wdc330i

16s won't clear your brakes.

*some* 16s will clear.

[zach]

Originally Posted by Nick M3

*some* 16s will clear.

The 16 inch contour replicas clear I believe. This is a moot point because I want 17s.

[ff]

Originally Posted by zcasavant

The 16 inch contour replicas clear I believe.

Correct (at least on the E46 330i). This is what I had for snow wheels on my E46. Just...barely...fit. So close, in fact, that Tirerack put the tape weights on the inside of the wheel and the brake calipers ripped them right off when I backed out of the garage.