10-17-2006, 12:11 AM | #31 |
There and back again
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: 2003 BMW 325xiT; looking for a new fun car
Location: New York
Posts: 2,939
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10-17-2006, 01:08 AM | #32 |
Finn is in puppy heaven
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: '02 325i
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 6,405
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Just got mine done a few weeks back. Was in the $1K range at an independent. I knew this place wasn't cheap before I took it there, but I knew the car was in very good hands and I needed a bit of extra close inspection of the suspension and frame to make sure the car was track-worthy after the two times it's been banged up.
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10-17-2006, 06:45 AM | #33 |
swinging for the fences
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: 987, X7 M60i, e36 M3
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 5,037
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10-17-2006, 07:49 AM | #34 | |
No more BMWs
Join Date: Apr 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8
Location: Glenwood, MD
Posts: 14,753
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Quote:
IT YOUR SELF. It is uber-satisfying. And doesn't an inspection 2 include a fuel filter, and spark plugs, too? If not, it should. JV |
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10-17-2006, 10:44 AM | #35 | |
Crazy Old Man
Join Date: Dec 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: M2C Stick
Posts: 6,021
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Quote:
Well some of the items mentioned by local shop were: Change oil, filter, diff fluid, trans fluid, plugs and pollen filter. Check like almost everything. Brakes, rotor's etc Plus this shop does an entire engine detail at every big service. The last time I got the car back from an inspection 1, the engine compartment was spotless. I am doing a couple of DIY's in the next coming weeks. I am changing the slip ring in the steering column and replaceing a worn power seat back gear on the passanger side that has given up the ghost.
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10-17-2006, 01:43 PM | #36 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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I've picked up all the necessary pieces for the Inspection II on the E46. I'll be doing it myself. After reading through what needs to be done it seems fairly straight forward. And the other things that need to be "inspected" seem to largely be to look if it's cracked or leaking. I think I can do that. My only question is on the rotor thickness. Where do I find out how much rotor thickness needs to remain for the rotor to remain within spec?
Oh, also, is there a good central jacking point on the front half of the car? It'd be nice to get the front wheels off the ground to check for bearing play and what not. But when I checked with a BMW tech they said you should only lift the car by the jacking pads on the sides. . . . a problem if I want to put a jack stand there. I found this on the madrussian.net site, which seems to be a reasonably good resource for a few things. |
10-17-2006, 01:46 PM | #37 |
•••••••
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: '11 1M
Location: Churzee
Posts: 17,741
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My car doesn't have that.
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2011 1M |
10-17-2006, 01:47 PM | #38 |
No more BMWs
Join Date: Apr 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8
Location: Glenwood, MD
Posts: 14,753
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Does the E46 not have the same crossmember (NOT the cross-BRACE) that the E36 had? That's where I jacked my E36.
You don't want the wheels off to check bearing play. Check the rotor thickness with a calipers or a micrometer (if you have one). The minimum thickness is cast onto the rotor, but it should also be in the bentley manual. Or do a search on bimmerforums - it should be up there. |
10-17-2006, 01:50 PM | #39 |
There and back again
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: 2003 BMW 325xiT; looking for a new fun car
Location: New York
Posts: 2,939
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I have an xi, and I have a support member there. I think it is a difference between AWD and non-AWD cars.
In case it wasn't a good spot to jack from (some people have reported dimpling some metal) I had my jack stands ready and had an assistant. I jacked the car up and he slid the stands under the side jack points, and I then backed off the jack in short order. |
10-17-2006, 02:50 PM | #40 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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Aaaarrgh. Ok, another question (thanks with all the help guys) regarding the oil. After perusing bimmerfest and following this link from a thread I'm now greatly confused about the oil usage for the standard E46.
Its soundling like (according to the link) the Mobil 1 5w30 is too thin and not recommended by BMW, but that Mobil 1 0w40 is ok. Is this information still accurate? If I can use the Mobile 1 it would be great as it's readily available in my area. When I checked the Mobil1 website and ran through their "what's right for my car?" process it came up with Mobil 1 0W40 as well. Am I good to go with this? |
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