M5 pads and rotor's

[Theo]

Ok it's finally almost that time.

I did a search on tire rack and got this:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...3&autoModClar=

Since its been SO long since I have dealt with breaks (I think in 2006 on my E36) can anyone makes suggestions.

Pads: Least amount of dust and quiet with better then average performance. That leaves any ceramic pads out right?

Rotors: Just go stock or is there any real improvement with cross drilled?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

[Nick M3]

The Hawk Performance Ceramic pads are pretty good once they bed in. The stoptechs are *ok*, but at least they are so cheap that hey are practically free.

Buy the rotors from RockAuto. They are stupid cheap for centric hardware (get the centric high carbon rotors) - they will also have the Stoptech pads and possibly the Hawks.

[Theo]

Originally Posted by Nick M3

The Hawk Performance Ceramic pads are pretty good once they bed in. The stoptechs are *ok*, but at least they are so cheap that hey are practically free.

Buy the rotors from RockAuto. They are stupid cheap for centric hardware (get the centric high carbon rotors) - they will also have the Stoptech pads and possibly the Hawks.

Great info. Thanks

What's the advantage of those rotors over stock?

This may not be as expensive as I first feared.

[Nick M3]

Originally Posted by Theo

Great info. Thanks

What's the advantage of those rotors over stock?

This may not be as expensive as I first feared.

The Centric High Carbon rotors are just the best made of their standard blanks. Their virtues are that they are comparable to stock and silly cheap.

[Theo]

Also for shits and giggles if I keep the M5 (Its really been a great car and there is nothing wrong with it) I would also need to replace the struts and shocks. Original as far as I can tell.

Are the Koni yellows still the best deal for the street?

I just replaced the clutch and pressure plate recently and if I do the brakes and suspension (All not covered under the warranty as ware items) then she should be good to go for some time.

The warranty runs out the end of April 2014. The only thing I can think of to try and make them replace that has not been addressed already is some of the cooling system pieces.

Again thanks for any feedback.

[Josh (PA)]

Originally Posted by Theo

Also for shits and giggles if I keep the M5 (Its really been a great car and there is nothing wrong with it) I would also need to replace the struts and shocks. Original as far as I can tell.

Are the Koni yellows still the best deal for the street?

I just replaced the clutch and pressure plate recently and if I do the brakes and suspension (All not covered under the warranty as ware items) then she should be good to go for some time.

The warranty runs out the end of April 2014. The only thing I can think of to try and make them replace that has not been addressed already is some of the cooling system pieces.

Again thanks for any feedback.

If you decide to hold onto it, I'd do the water pump, expansion tank and fan clutch as well. I know a lot of people do the radiator too, I've never had a problem with the radiator itself, just the expansion tank and hose. Mine has also been completely issue free (knock on wood)

[Theo]

Originally Posted by Josh (PA)

If you decide to hold onto it, I'd do the water pump, expansion tank and fan clutch as well. I know a lot of people do the radiator too, I've never had a problem with the radiator itself, just the expansion tank and hose. Mine has also been completely issue free (knock on wood)

Also good to know. Thanks.

I would not say it's been totally trouble free. It's never left me stranded but I have had things like both throttle body banks replaced under warranty for running harsh at slow speeds.

And a lot of little things. Power folding mirror motor, power seat motor and cable, back door weather seal, replaced Nav unit, broken strut bar links...... All covered.

I am more worried about what might be about to happen which is why I asked what to check.

[cenotaph]

Originally Posted by Theo

Are the Koni yellows still the best deal for the street?

Unless you need the adjustability for some reason (or just prefer really firm shocks on the street), I'd go with Koni FSDs.

[Nick M3]

Originally Posted by cenotaph

Unless you need the adjustability for some reason (or just prefer really firm shocks on the street), I'd go with Koni FSDs.

Reliability has been a huge issue with FSDs from what I can tell.

[John V]

Originally Posted by Nick M3

Reliability has been a huge issue with FSDs from what I can tell.

Lee@ koni says the opposite.

They've been great on both our cars. 60k on the Mazda and 30k on the 330 I.