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Old 04-03-2020, 05:55 PM   #11
Nick M3
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No doubt. I'm buying new disks and pads. Any harm in going with OEM pads in the rear with Hawk ads up front?

Pins glided smoothly on both calipers.
matching is better. otherwise, you can throw bias off.
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:48 PM   #12
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matching is better. otherwise, you can throw bias off.
I figured. I'm buying new pads all around and new rear rotors.
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Old 04-30-2020, 03:39 PM   #13
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I figured. I'm buying new pads all around and new rear rotors.
Update/rant:

I went ahead and ordered a full set of OEM pads and rear rotors - or so I thought.

Waited 1.5 weeks for parts to arrive only to find I had received front rotors. Yup, I ordered front ones by accident. In my defense, the site had suggested these when I added the rear pads and the image looked (and still does) like solid discs, not vented like the fronts are. In addition, despite ordering the the proper kit, I got rear pads with no clips.

They were good enough to issue me a return label for the front rotors (I picked up shipping on the rears - not cheap) and they sent me a new set of pads. Except I received front pads. Forget it. I'll just keep them and clean and reuse my rear pad clips.

Fast forward a couple more weeks and the rear rotors finally arrive. I go to put them on on Tuesday night and (long story) I cross-thread a bolt into a slide pin. Ugh.

Yesterday morning I call the dealership and order all 4 rear caliper bolts (the gunked threads are partly to blame for the cross-threading) and new rear, lower, slide pin. They came in this morning. I go to pick them up and guy had ordered the front ones. HOW?! I read him the freakin' part numbers over the phone. GRRR.

So hopefully tomorrow I'll get the proper parts and get the stupid car down from the lift after nearly a month.
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Old 04-30-2020, 05:38 PM   #14
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Fast forward a couple more weeks and the rear rotors finally arrive. I go to put them on on Tuesday night and (long story) I cross-thread a bolt into a slide pin. Ugh.
.
I had to look up cross thread only because if I read the definition correctly it means you stripped it ...

If so I have done the same thing many times ... so frustrating
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Old 04-30-2020, 06:45 PM   #15
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I had to look up cross thread only because if I read the definition correctly it means you stripped it ...

If so I have done the same thing many times ... so frustrating
Well, I know in common parlance people use "stripping threads" and "cross-threading" interchangeably, but as a machine design engineer, stripping threads means that you overloaded too few (or soft/weak) threads and the threads were sheared off under axial load. Cross threading means the threads did not follow their intended path and as a result the peaks of the threads were flattened creating a crappy new thread path.

It was so annoying. I was having trouble getting the screw in smoothly. I pulled the pin and tried the screw in my hands and it as tough to get it to fit in, so I figured the resistance was natural. But the e-brake cable ads an annoying side load. I thought I had it, but obviously did not. I'm hoping new screws will fix this. Unlike other cars, where screws are very cheap, these are meant to be reused. They are $8 a pop. For Mazda screws.

Last edited by FC; 04-30-2020 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:55 PM   #16
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cross threaded is still tight!
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:31 PM   #17
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cross threaded is still tight!
Yes indeed.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:33 PM   #18
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Well, I know in common parlance people use "stripping threads" and "crossed threading" interchangeably, but as a machine design engineer, stripping threads means that you overloaded too few (or soft/weak) threads and the threads were sheared off under axial load. Cross threading means the threads did not follow their intended path and as a result the peaks of the threads were flattened creating a crappy new thread path.

It was so annoying. I was having trouble getting the screw in smoothly. I pulled the pin and tried the screw in my hands and it as tough to get it to fit in, so I figured the resistance was natural. But the e-brake cable ads an annoying side load. I thought I had it, but obviously did not. I'm hoping new screws will fix this. Unlike other cars, where screws are very cheap, these are meant to be reused. They are $8 a pop. For Mazda screws.
Got it ... thanks for explaining the difference .... Iím sure youíll get it done !!! It does get frustrating when things donít go as they should but when you get it done the satisfaction will be there
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Old 05-01-2020, 08:33 AM   #19
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As frustrating as this is, at least the Miata is not you only ride. Imagine if your were 18 years old right now and this just happened . . . .you just spent the only money you have, and your ride still sits on a block or two (cause no way you can afford a lift)
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Old 05-01-2020, 08:43 AM   #20
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As frustrating as this is, at least the Miata is not you only ride. Imagine if your were 18 years old right now and this just happened . . . .you just spent the only money you have, and your ride still sits on a block or two (cause no way you can afford a lift)
True. Although admittedly, had that been the case, I would:

1) Not have removed the rear rotors and rendered the car inoperable until I had the correct parts, or
2) Gone to a local dealer or a car parts store and gotten brakes that same day.

The thread issue costing me 2-3 days? Yeah, I would have been hosed with that. And yes, the car would be in blocks on a crappy driveway (in the rain, given the weather the last two days).

My first brake job was on my 190E 2.6 right out of school and I was overly ambitious and decided to do a full brake job and replace the flex lines as well on a Sunday. I took too long (was missing tools and had to bike to stores to get them) and created a massive air pocket in the system. I had to borrow my dad's car to go to work the next day and car sat on stands for a day. So I know exactly what you mean.
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