04-18-2005, 11:58 PM | #21 | ||
Realist
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 171
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Sure, just lemme know when you're in town EDIT: wait, what car is this for? |
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04-19-2005, 12:07 AM | #22 | |
Mugwump
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: E46 330i, Chevy Colorado, Tesla Model 3
Location: NY
Posts: 17,475
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04-19-2005, 12:26 AM | #23 |
The old cranky SOB....
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: several cars... way too many....
Location: Near Seattle
Posts: 4,798
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I've used one of these for years and years......
It has many nice aspects - Some of them are-
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Kevin 1970 2800CS - - 2001 740iL - - 2006 997.1 - - 2012 Escalade 1968 Mustang GT Convertible - - 2003 Ford F250 PSD - - 1985 728i |
04-19-2005, 05:40 AM | #24 | |
Carmudgeon
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,717
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1) I never have, unless you over torque them, ala DIY on BF. 2) Street only. Smells bad when you seriously overcook the track pads. 3) Wire brush, by hand or rotary in drill or other power tool. 4) Same. Maybe hit it first with brake cleaner to see if that works. 5) You should replace it now, as that boot is part of the sleeve that guides the guide pin. I agree that the soild bushing setup from BimmerWorld (you can also buy it from Turner and others, but BW makes them) is nice, but it does require additional maintenance. NOt a big deal if you are swapping pads fairly often. Not good for those who don't swap pads a few times per year.
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Terry Carraway 2002 Topaz E46 M3 2000 Dakar M Roadster 1995 Alpine E36 M3 LTW 1990 Red/White Spec Racer |
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04-19-2005, 07:54 AM | #25 | |
No more BMWs
Join Date: Apr 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8
Location: Glenwood, MD
Posts: 14,753
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Back out the bleed valve screw when you push the piston in. This is especially important if you have ABS! You do NOT want the rust / water / crud from the caliper going back into the brake system. John V |
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04-20-2005, 12:27 AM | #26 | |
Mugwump
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: E46 330i, Chevy Colorado, Tesla Model 3
Location: NY
Posts: 17,475
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Quote:
I managed to make the rookie mistake of letting the tank run dry and air got in, so I had to start all over. What a dumbass (after a panic'd instant message to Clyde and Nick. Thanks for the advice. ) I was confused because the container didn't look empty, but the pedal went straight to the floor, and wouldn't gain pressure. But after enough pumping, it came back, and I eventually worked the bubbles out the back. I also changed the fuel filter and fuel pump. That wasn't bad at all, but I was disappointed to see that the fuel pump wasn't original (the tab on the wiring clip was broken off, suggesting it has been changed). Shouldn't they last at least 10 years? I'm wondering if there's too much pressure or something, causing the pump to overwork and keep failing. |
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04-20-2005, 12:57 AM | #27 |
Butting in.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 4,553
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Fuel pumps on E30s are a notoriously weak point. Someone might have changed it even asymptomatically as insurance.
I don't always change fluid and pads at the same time, and always just push the piston back. Since it's a closed system (if it isn't, something's wrong!), there's no extra crud there to be pushed back - and everything is flushed clean in the other direction at least yearly when you bleed the fluid.
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The question is not whether I've treated you rudely, but whether you've ever heard me treat anyone else better. -H. Higgins |
04-20-2005, 07:53 AM | #28 | |
No more BMWs
Join Date: Apr 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8
Location: Glenwood, MD
Posts: 14,753
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Quote:
That would be true if an airtight seal existed at the master cylinder cap and if you never opened the top. The fact is that with brake fluid having such an affinity for water and water being prevalent in the air we breathe, water gets into the brake system. Calipers are made of ferrous metal, and as such they will rust when there is water present. I'm guessing you've never rebuilt a brake caliper after buying a used car whose previous owner didn't flush the fluid. Rust, rust rust. Even if you do flush yearly, rust will still form and it's most likely to dislodge when you're pushing a piston back into a bore. Bentley manuals are terrible. They miss all manner of critical steps, at least the E36 version does. Oh, how I miss my 1,000 page RX-7 factory shop manual... Pushing a piston back without opening the bleed screw is fine if you like gambling. I tend to keep my cars for a long time. |
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04-20-2005, 12:14 PM | #29 | ||
Butting in.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 4,553
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__________________
The question is not whether I've treated you rudely, but whether you've ever heard me treat anyone else better. -H. Higgins |
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04-20-2005, 01:57 PM | #30 | ||||
No more BMWs
Join Date: Apr 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8
Location: Glenwood, MD
Posts: 14,753
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Quote:
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Oh, did I mention releasing the bleed screw makes it much easier to retract the piston? There's no reason NOT to do it. |
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