New 2-Series leaked

[SCA]

Originally Posted by wdc330i

I think Mike might be within his rights to push for a loaner during the wait for the new car...

His rights, sure… but good luck as there are not a lot of loaners to hand out these days due to “supply constraints.” The excuse for everything.

[JST]

Yeah, SCA has a point, and wdc is right—the difference in value between a fixed 22 and a new 23 is significant. Assuming you can get a new 23 in any kind of reasonable timeframe.

Inflation also works in your favor if you have price protection on the 22 prices. A 23 in Jan is going to cost meaningfully less in real terms than a 22 now. That may be offset in part by interest rates, but probably not entirely.

[wdc330i]

What the new iDrive looks like in the 2:

https://www.bmwblog.com/2022/08/05/b...ries-idrive-8/

[SCA]

Originally Posted by wdc330i

What the new iDrive looks like in the 2:

https://www.bmwblog.com/2022/08/05/b...ries-idrive-8/

Page 53 http://forums.carmudgeons.com/showpo...&postcount=528

[wdc330i]

Originally Posted by SCA

Page 53 http://forums.carmudgeons.com/showpo...&postcount=528

Oops. Ground Hog day for me!

[IndyMike]

First of all, sincere thanks and heartfelt appreciation for all of the considered responses you good folks provided. You guys truly ROCK!

I had a lousy night and hardly slept at all with all of the same thoughts that were brought up by you guys. I'm sure at some point I'm going to screw up and curb a rim, or scuff a front bumper or something stupid like that. I've never been able to avoid those kind of automotive life irritations yet. But like trying in bowling to roll a perfect score you always have that hope driving off of the lot when you first pick it up. Stinks to have a huge defect right out of the gate. But at least for once I can't kick or curse myself for having caused the first boo-boo.

Anyway, the latest is the CA says they will take it to their go-to body shop and have them inspect it Monday morning. Meantime, the sales manager is supposed to be putting together an inconvenience offer to try and ameliorate the situation.

I will definitely listen to their proposal. One way or other whether I buy it or not it's still in their best interests to have as good a job as possible done to it. I'm using this as their incentive for them to make sure no corners are cut. No doubt even with this checkered start they will be able to sell the car to someone else should I opt out. But they would likely lose more of their profit, so hopefully they will consider that as part of their "inconvenience" offer.

I guess we'll see once my CA reports back.

I am thinking once the job is completed that I will travel up there and inspect the job first hand.

Here are my questions for the community.
(1) Would it help if I purchased a paint guage?
(2) If yes, is there a tolerance or something that I am looking for when inspecting the area and surrounding areas where the paint was blended in? We already know it is almost impossible to match 100% with the original paint on the rest of the car. But is there a + or - number I should be looking for (really missing Stuka right now )?
(3) What is a good paint guage product to use?
(4) Visually, what should I be looking for? Just the obvious stuff like drips or mismatched sections where it was not blended in properly?
(5) Should I view it in various lighting conditions such as ambient as well as shaded lighting conditions?

Maybe I am overthinking and overanalyzing this for nothing, but I figured it would be better to have TMI than too little information.

I will definitely be taking beaucoup pictures to look at when I get home to see if maybe they reveal something I missed.

So, that's my game plan for now. I'm 50/50 right now as to which way to go.

Oh, and I have already started looking at the 23 ordering guide. It looks like a similarly speced vehicle is only $650 more than the 22 model. Not bad when you consider the starting price increased by $1350. You can now even order driver side lumbar support for $175 for sensatec optioned seats which is a definite bonus to me.

If I go that way, I will definitely be leaning heavily on Dan for his id8 comments. Might even consider going with RWD like him instead of AWD

[SCA]

Mike, I have/use a Elcometer paint gauge. It is/was one of the leaders in the automotive industry. Edit: I have the older version of this: https://www.elcometerusa.com/Coating...nishing-Gauge/

You want to measure for thickness, which it will be high, unlike the factory finish and because of such will always be detectable. If they blend which more than likely they will, then the panel they blend into will have a high reading as well. If any body filler happens to be used, the paint gauge will not give a reading. This is a clear indicator that there is body filler. You want to look for trash/contaminants in the paint/clear coat which is typically from pollutants/debris in the air within the body shop as well as poor prep prior to paint. You want to look for fish eyes, orange peal inconsistency, sanding marks, overspray, etc, etc. Anything that looks out of the norm. Any good used car manager worth his/her weight in gold as well as a professional detailer will instantly be able to notice a repair without ever using a paint gauge. This alone is why I would walk. You are bound to get financially hit later on down the line when you are ready to get rid of it. How long do you intend to keep this car?

The ‘23 for only $650 more (which they would probably eat) without all the headaches sounds extremely tempting. I know we all have bashed ID8 a good bit, but instantly having body work on a new car that you do not even own yet or learning to living with ID8… I would not even have to sleep on it, or attempt to sleep on it.

[IndyMike]

Originally Posted by SCA

Mike, I have/use a Elcometer paint gauge. It is/was one of the leaders in the automotive industry. Edit: I have the older version of this: https://www.elcometerusa.com/Coating...nishing-Gauge/

You want to measure for thickness, which it will be high, unlike the factory finish and because of such will always be detectable. If they blend which more than likely they will, then the panel they blend into will have a high reading as well. If any body filler happens to be used, the paint gauge will not give a reading. This is a clear indicator that there is body filler. You want to look for trash/contaminants in the paint/clear coat which is typically from pollutants in the air within the body shop as well as poor prep prior to paint. You want to look for fish eyes, orange peal inconsistency, sanding marks, etc, etc. Anything that looks out of the norm. Any good used car manager worth his/her weight in gold as well as a professional detailer will instantly be able to notice a repair without ever using a paint gauge. This alone is why I would walk. You are bound to get financially hit later on down the line when you are ready to get rid of it. How long do you intend to keep this car?

The ‘23 for only $650 more (which they would probably eat) without all the headaches sounds extremely tempting. I know we all have bashed ID8 a good bit, but instantly having body work on a new car that you do not even own yet or learning to living with ID8… I would not even have to sleep on it, or attempt to sleep on it.

Thanks for the Paint Guage 101 class Sean.

I'll still keep an open mind until I find out what the whole enchilada will be discounted, but I understand for sure why you recommend reordering.

I guess it also depends upon how long you plan to retain the car as the hit will lessen the longer you keep the car, using natural depreciation tables. Right now, I plan to keep it until the last G42/G87 model year which I presume would be 2028.

And the PCD recommendation is also a solid one. Thanks for bringing that up. Once bitten, twice shy for sure. That does add between 4- 6 weeks ballpark average normally to the pickup right? if so, we would probably be looking at December - January delivery date.

[dan]

The BMW inside info guy on bimmerpost says 7/29 will be EOP for the G87, so perhaps one more year

[dan]

..