06-21-2011, 06:58 PM | #1 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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What I'm working on now: Axle Swap and Shock Shifters
Just a quick post about what I'm working on now. . .
The axle swap is well underway and in the middle of that I've decided to do a shock shifter modifiction as well. Some of you might know I picked up the stronger rear D44 axle out of the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon edition to replace my current rear axle. Along with a number of goodies it has the factory air locker in it which I'm looking forward to. So it is a strength and traction improvement. All told the project is encompassing these major phases: Axle Swap This is the basic mechanics of getting the new axle installed and mechanically functional. Normally, the new axle is a straight bolt-in swap. But I needed to re-set the pinion angle as well as add lower shock mounts) and I'll be swapping out the pinion yoke for a different type. Electrical Installation The axle locker is air actuated and requires an air pump. This requires electricity and I'll be tapping into the Jeep's Power Distribution Center and opening up the dash to install the necessary relays, switches, and wiring harness. Pump Mounting The pump needs to be bolted under the hood, hooked up to electricity, and have the air hoses routed to the axle and to the firewall / air filter. Shock Shifter This is the biggest PITA of the project. Trying to re-design the suspension system. I'm basing it off of an existing aftermarket kit but otherwise having to reverse engineer it based on looking at internet photos. Normally it's a $130 kit but I can fab it up out of some scrap steel I have kicking about my garage. The tricky part is accounting for the movement of the axle. As the Jeep suspension cycles the axle moves left to right, up and down, and slightly forward or backwards, not to mention it also rotates slightly. Step one: removal of the old axle from under the Jeep. The new axle on jack stand so I could weld on some mini-skids and box in the lower control arm brackets. It helps to strengthen them as well as provide a base mount for the shock shifters. New axle under the Jeep. The suspension links are loosely fitted and the springs, shocks, and swaybar left out so I can flex the axle throughout it's range of movement to check clearance for the shock shifter mod. I wanted to re-use my old OEM forged steel track bar instead of the adjustable unit I was using. This required modifying the factory track bar mount since the rotation of the axle housing to accommodate a different type of driveshaft got things out of alignment. Only half of the bracket is fabbed up right now. I'll make the other half once the axle is pulled out from under the Jeep again for final welding. With the axle "located" with all the suspension links and the housing re-set at ride height it was time to work on the shock shifters. Here the mounting tabs are bolted into place on the rear cross member. To this I'll weld on various bits of steel for the upper shock mounts. A cardboard template and the piece of steel I'm cutting for the upper shock bracket. Compressing the axle to the bump stop to check for shock clearances.
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. "Jeep is the only true American sports car*" - Enzo Ferrari * Or something to that effect. |
06-21-2011, 07:00 PM | #2 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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Measuring compressed and extended shock lengths so that the shocks are not what stops the suspension up travel. I wired the shocks to stay at a fully compressed length and at the normal ride height length to make it easier to check fitment and position various bracket pieces. Adding the shock shifter lower mounting plate. It's cut very large so I can make sure the lower mounting tabs land on it. I'll trim it down to size later. The white line represents where the aftermarket kit aligned the lower shock end in relation to the control arm bracket. Seemed like a good place to put mine, too. Note marks of where the shock bushing sleeve aligns at various suspension points. With a better idea of where the lower shock ends up, I tack welded in the necessary bits o' steel to lock in the geometry of the upper shock mount. This the the upper bracket when removed from the Jeep. It looks nasty and crude right now but once it's fully welded and a few bits ground down it'll be much better. Fabbing the lower shock mounts. Getting these aligned was easy. . . bolt them to the shock, move shock into position, tack weld, done. As you can see, the plate they are welded to is rather huge. It'll get trimmed back as much as possible and the mounting tabs themselves will be rounded over. This is as far as I've gotten as of last night. I started at the beginning of June but have had many nights where I couldn't work on the project. With the first shock shifter largely "in" I feel like I've turned a major milestone on this project. Still lots of work to do. But I think I can get the Jeep ready to roll for a camping trip at the beginning of July with my son.
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. "Jeep is the only true American sports car*" - Enzo Ferrari * Or something to that effect. |
06-21-2011, 09:25 PM | #3 |
older fart than ZBB
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: On the road again
Posts: 8,900
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I see you have a floor jack.
If you find yourself needing another, let me know. I won't be using mine for a while
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2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 2020 Fusion Titanium |
06-21-2011, 10:31 PM | #4 |
lawn boy
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: e46m3, f25x3,C5 Z06, C4 Vette, 06 CTD Ram, and a trailer
Location: Maryland
Posts: 14,029
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That's cool and all, but seems like a lot of time and effort to save $130.
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06-22-2011, 12:47 PM | #5 | |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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Quote:
Adding the extra $130 on top of the $1200+ spent on the regear, the $400 spend on fixing other worn components on the front axle, and the $800-900 for tires that the Jeep also needs would not go over well from the finance department.
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. "Jeep is the only true American sports car*" - Enzo Ferrari * Or something to that effect. Last edited by lupinsea; 06-22-2011 at 01:07 PM. |
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06-22-2011, 12:48 PM | #6 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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Thanks! But I think I'm good with the one floor jack for now.
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. "Jeep is the only true American sports car*" - Enzo Ferrari * Or something to that effect. |
06-24-2011, 02:51 PM | #7 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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Pulled the axle out from under the Jeep again so I could better finish the welds. They look a bit blobby but they'll hold.
Man, I went through a lot of angle grinder cutting disks, 4, in the last day and a half. For some reasons these discs kept binding up when cutting through the plate steel. And at ~12,000 rpm when they do that they crack or chip and then start disintegrating rapidly after that. So, I picked up another disk this morning. That and more welding wire. Ran out of the welding wire last night after HD had closed so I couldn't do much additional work.
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. "Jeep is the only true American sports car*" - Enzo Ferrari * Or something to that effect. Last edited by lupinsea; 06-27-2011 at 04:33 PM. |
06-24-2011, 05:41 PM | #8 |
The old cranky SOB....
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: several cars... way too many....
Location: Near Seattle
Posts: 4,798
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Ummm... I may call on you for a favor.
With what I see you able to do - should take 10 minutes.. haha
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Kevin 1970 2800CS - - 2001 740iL - - 2006 997.1 - - 2012 Escalade 1968 Mustang GT Convertible - - 2003 Ford F250 PSD - - 1985 728i |
06-25-2011, 07:02 AM | #9 |
Carmudgeon
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,717
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Dude, those welds look awful.
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Terry Carraway 2002 Topaz E46 M3 2000 Dakar M Roadster 1995 Alpine E36 M3 LTW 1990 Red/White Spec Racer |
06-27-2011, 04:32 PM | #10 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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Thanks. . . yes they do.
Made more progress this weekend.... Finished welding all the brackets on the axle, including the trackbar bracket. Got the TB bracket braced in with an extra piece of plate steel. Detail shot of the trackbar bracket with it's curved brace plate. The axle all painted and ready to re-install. Starting work on the wiring harness. Here I'm soldering extensions onto the leads coming out of the relay module block. Doing it per the Factory Service Manual: Add metal crimp to the splice, solder, then heat shrink. Spent a good chunk on Sunday building the wiring harness. This is laid out how it wraps around the engine compartment then goes back along the frame rail to the rear axle. Got all the factory connectors that I could incorporated into the harness and soldered up. But in a few locations I needed to resort to some slimmer connectors on single wire strands. Taking apart the dash to add the switch gear to the factory dash bezels as well as plan the routing for the wiring harness. This is as far as I made it last night: most of the interior dash harness is done but for the terminal connectors at the firewall/ground and wrapping it up in electrical tape. Safety switch installed in the speaker bezel (this will "arm" the system). And the main dash switch with indicator light. The last two fit the accessory switch bezel on the center stack. Dash switch and indicator light installed into the accessory bezel.
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. "Jeep is the only true American sports car*" - Enzo Ferrari * Or something to that effect. |
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