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Old 08-14-2018, 10:37 AM   #51
equ
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Are you self-installing? Would only fronts suffice?

I got charged $300 installation for all 4. If I get a chance, I'm going to go over and have them measure the rotors but we'll see. I think my f10 rotors might be more expensive. If I did a do-over, I might keep the Zim (oem bmw rusted very, very fast, not that zim doesn't rust) but go with bmw branded pads, not sure I trust the textar pads after the last experience.
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:06 AM   #52
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I'm doing the install myself - just the fronts. Zim rotors shipped was $105. Call me crazy... but now I want to learn whether this combo can work if done right.

What I found interesting about the Zimmermann page was the quote "the cementite will build up and simultaneously penetrate deeper into the brake disc material. [...] This can only be remedied through an exchange of the brake discs and brake pads.".

This is exactly my experience. Once you're fucked, you're fucked. Obsessive bedding doesn't solve it.
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:59 AM   #53
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Quote:
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Oh! Where the heck do I get that deal?

EDIT: I ordered a new pair of Zimmermann rotors for $105. At this point I just want to know if they work if I bed them according to their directions.

I already have a second pair of brand new Textar pads, so it'll be a total do over, this time with by-the-book bedding.


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RockAuto is SUPER CHEAP for Centric parts.
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Old 09-23-2018, 01:29 PM   #54
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I finally got around to installing one of the new Zimmerman rotors. It spins freely for some of the rotation, but scrapes hard for portions of it. This can't possible be right, can it? It's as if the rotor is physically warped.

Here's a video. You can hear and see it scraping / stopping. I need to return this to ECS, I guess.



Last edited by rumatt; 09-23-2018 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 09-23-2018, 02:27 PM   #55
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I also looked at the used rotor and noticed that there are pad marks on the outside, but not the inside. I wonder if the caliper is not releasing on that side when I let off the brake when I park?

Pics of the pads are also attached. The top one is the outer pad, which aligns with the pad marks. It seems to show a bit more wear.

The Zimmerman FAQ made me certain it was a bedding issue.. but now I'm not so sure. I could use some advice here. If taking it to a shop would fix it, I would. But I'm guessing they'd just sell me more rotors and pads.
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Last edited by rumatt; 09-23-2018 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 09-23-2018, 04:00 PM   #56
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it wouldn’t hurt to rebuild your calipers.
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Old 09-23-2018, 04:23 PM   #57
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Ugh, JV pointed out I need to have the lug bolts in to check the rotor for true.

With the wheel in its much better but not quite perfect. I'm going to remove then rotor and clean under it.

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Old 09-24-2018, 12:59 PM   #58
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I don't believe my rotor is sitting perfectly in the axis that it should be. Even after I tighten the lug bolts, the rotor still scrapes slightly unevenly.

I found this nicely written article about brakes. I'm going to buy a brake runout gauge and measure it. And get some brake alignment shims if needed.

http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/a...etails?id=1787
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Old 09-24-2018, 05:36 PM   #59
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Interesting... The plot thickens. The opinions (comments) are highly opinionated.
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:32 PM   #60
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Quote:
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I'm going to buy a brake runout gauge and measure it. And get some brake alignment shims if needed.
You will find many uses for it, not just brakes.

I have not done searches, but you don't need one that says it is for brakes. Just get a good magnetic base, and something with easy movement adjustments.

And an adjustable "zero" arrow on the outer dial is a must. One of my father's gauges didn't have this, and it was a PITA not having it
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