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Old 02-27-2020, 06:47 PM   #671
wdc330i
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Originally Posted by Josh (PA) View Post
Annnnddd I just got an email form westmont that the c4 is sold so that makes this much easier
sounds like you're dealing with someone much more sensible anyway.
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Old 02-27-2020, 07:11 PM   #672
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Annnnddd I just got an email form westmont that the c4 is sold so that makes this much easier
I was going to tell you to add me to the C2 camp. 911s have a lot of traction - especially with today’s super sticky tires. Unless you plan on driving in messy winter weather, I don’t see the value of the C4 except for ultimate grip on acceleration (maybe). Meanwhile the C2 is lighter, simpler, etc.
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Old 02-27-2020, 07:56 PM   #673
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I've written this multiple times. The 911 is the car that least needs AWD out of all car configurations. On vacated back streets/warehouse lots, I drove on fresh slush with potenzas and had a ton of fun with how it put it down. c2 all the way, you also get luggage space (and room for a donut).

Reliability: Not counting the basket case 996, none of my porsches (2006+) had much anything fixed under warranty. They have expensive maintenance but in my experience (combined 60k miles?) hardly anything went wrong, they don't nickel & dime you the way a vw/bmw/audi does.

The condition of the car is key. I highly recommend an in-person inspection.
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Old 02-27-2020, 08:00 PM   #674
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Assuming prices are within $5k of each other, which one would you get and why?
So this is always personal... You know enough about cars, it shouldn't be spreadsheet optimization, you should WANT one more than the other.

There are things you may not have experienced so I guess forums can be a placeholder for test drive/experience, but only to a certain point. I vote for the C2. I've driven c2 & c4 back to back from 2004 through 2012. There is not a lot of difference to the drive on the street, perhaps the c4 has weightier steering, feels a bit less like a "911". On the track, the c2 was better than the c4 (for me), just as the coupe was better than the cab and the S was better than the non-S. The c2 engine revs up a little "freer".

I don't know what "LCA" is.

I do know that when I traded in my Macan turbo, not having the RS Spyder wheels hurt my resale. I just got full black wheels for the first time as my 340i winter set and they have grown on me; never thought I'd like them some years ago, and here I am catching up to fashion. I almost like them better than my anthracite stock track handling wheels.
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Old 02-27-2020, 09:04 PM   #675
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So this is starting to get a little more real for us.

I'll start with I'm just not comfortable with the Blue car. Alan, I really appreciate you checking it out for me. Everytime I look at your pics I am uncomfortable with how bright the blue is and I really don't like black interiors. As I've mentioned a few times before, I'm struggling with the P-Car stigma already, and I think the look at me aspect of the blue would make me even more uncomfortable.
No worries my friend, you need to get the car you’re comfortable with ... I completely relate ... find any cars near me again and I will be glad to check them out. It is not easy finding the right car but you will

(Just checked into the boards and saw this post but only read this part)

Last edited by Alan; 02-28-2020 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 02-28-2020, 02:35 PM   #676
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Finally had a chance to read through this, if I recall the one that sold had been in an accident and wasn't the mileage at 27k ... not that it matters now since it's sold.

The one you are looking at is beautiful and the miles are nice and low plus I think the price is very good. While I do not see it listed, it appears to have PASM.

Does the dealer have the window sticker ?

As far as the warranty, I think the peace of mind is worth it, I purchased the Fidelity Platinum, I think it was a 6 year and paid in the mid to high $4k range.

While I only needed it for a very minor repair I like that I have 2 years left on it. My thinking has always been while these cars are very reliable if something goes wrong it can turn out to be a major expense especially with the prices these Porsche dealers charge. Keep in mind a $2k service is not unusual for these cars, can you imagine what they charge for a real problem.

Look at how much Audi wanted for my shocks on the R8 ... if I recall it was a $9k repair ... that extended warranty paid for itself over and over again.
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Old 02-28-2020, 03:57 PM   #677
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Maybe I am naive or in some sort of denial, but to me, spending more than 3k usually means serious drivetrain work.

As an example, one of the two major issues LR4's have are the cooling system (a particular plastic pipe that cracks and the water pump) or the timing chain tensioner guides (which my car being a 2013 should be immune to, but there are conflicting reports about that). The former is anywhere from a 600 to 1500 job depending on what it involves and who does it (indy vs. dealer). The latter is a 3k-5k job, again, with the higher estimate for a dealer. The air shocks are not cheap (many hundreds per corner) but have proven reliable and long lasting - even in a rover.

Once again, given my lower mileage, I have not worried about it.

My 997TT kept me up at night because of the cooling pipe issue afflicting the Mezger engines, but at 90k miles it never came up. A leaking u-joint needed replacement and the dealer charged $400. The clutch master cylinder work that was covered under warranty was $2500. Not peanuts, but for a car like that, still not crazy. Even on that car, the replacement of the cooling pipe issue was discussed as a $3-4k job.

My point is, that in my experience, it takes something quite involved or a major failure to rack up a bill in excess of $5k. ...or apparently having suspension components made out of unobtanium. ;-)

But if you fear multiple small issues, that certainly can add up quickly.
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Old 02-28-2020, 04:11 PM   #678
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Maybe I am naive or in some sort of denial, but to me, spending more than 3k usually means serious drivetrain work.

As an example, one of the two major issues LR4's have are the cooling system (a particular plastic pipe that cracks and the water pump) or the timing chain tensioner guides (which my car being a 2013 should be immune to, but there are conflicting reports about that). The former is anywhere from a 600 to 1500 job depending on what it involves and who does it (indy vs. dealer). The latter is a 3k-5k job, again, with the higher estimate for a dealer. The air shocks are not cheap (many hundreds per corner) but have proven reliable and long lasting - even in a rover.

Once again, given my lower mileage, I have not worried about it.

My 997TT kept me up at night because of the cooling pipe issue afflicting the Mezger engines, but at 90k miles it never came up. A leaking u-joint needed replacement and the dealer charged $400. The clutch master cylinder work that was covered under warranty was $2500. Not peanuts, but for a car like that, still not crazy. Even on that car, the replacement of the cooling pipe issue was discussed as a $3-4k job.

My point is, that in my experience, it takes something quite involved or a major failure to rack up a bill in excess of $5k. ...or apparently having suspension components made out of unobtanium. ;-)

But if you fear multiple small issues, that certainly can add up quickly.
If you're talking about work at a Porsche dealer, getting to 3K is no problem. The local P car dealer wanted to charge me $400 for an oil change.
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Old 02-28-2020, 08:19 PM   #679
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I'm trying really hard not to get emotionally attached to the one at the Alfa dealership. We are playing the negotiating game right now and I'm trying to be sure I can be ok walking away if it comes to that, but the more I study it the more I like it.
Anything warranty related I'd take to the dealer, but anything off cycle I have a good Indy Porsche shop right across the street from my wife's work.
I would probably pass on a warranty and take my chances. Everything ive ready suggests 991.2s are pretty bullet proof. Famous last words, right....

And @equ LCA is lane change assist / blind spot monitor. Supposedly nice to have for a 'vert when the top is up.
@Alan. All 991.2 have pasm. They also have an spasm option with lowers the car 2mm. This one has pasm
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Old 02-28-2020, 10:40 PM   #680
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That is cool they include pasm on the base ... the funny thing is they don’t even offer it as an option on the base 992, if I remember correctly I think it was available as an option on the base 991.1


Anyway I need to tell you these cars are awesome, they really are special and you will be in love it ...
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