Chain cleaning

John V · 08-12-2005, 03:15 PM

Okay, big reality check when I bought the SV. I hadn't cleaned a drive chain in years. (XS400 and XS650 had them, but the XJ700X had a driveshaft).

What are y'all using to clean your chains? I talked to a technician many moons ago who suggested using kerosene and a toothbrush. Kerosene has some degree of lubrication ability built in, and it's a great solvent that won't degrade the o-ring seals. It's worked very well for me, but does anyone think it's a bad idea? I've got 3k on the bike and after five chain cleanings it feels and looks to be in good shape.

Suzuki specifies cleaning the chain every 600 miles.

For a while I was cleaning it every couple weeks.

The most irritating part is cleaning the "fling" from the chain lube off the wheel and rear brake.

*dredmo* · 08-12-2005, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John V

Okay, big reality check when I bought the SV. I hadn't cleaned a drive chain in years. (XS400 and XS650 had them, but the XJ700X had a driveshaft).

What are y'all using to clean your chains? I talked to a technician many moons ago who suggested using kerosene and a toothbrush. Kerosene has some degree of lubrication ability built in, and it's a great solvent that won't degrade the o-ring seals. It's worked very well for me, but does anyone think it's a bad idea? I've got 3k on the bike and after five chain cleanings it feels and looks to be in good shape.

Suzuki specifies cleaning the chain every 600 miles.

For a while I was cleaning it every couple weeks.

The most irritating part is cleaning the "fling" from the chain lube off the wheel and rear brake.

Two words for ya, Shaft Drive.

Yeah I know, your counter would be, Tubeless Tires...

...

Anyways, I've heard kerosene is the way to go for DIY'ers. I don't think you're hurting anything by doign that, and the best part is, you're not spending tons of money on some 'specific-use' formula.

Roadstergal · 08-12-2005, 03:34 PM

Cleaning and lubing are two different processes. Don't do one without the other.

Kerosene is what the manual says to use to clean on every chain-drive bike I've had. Pop it on the centerstand (or rearstand, for SVs), put some newspaper down, wet a rag with kerosene, spin the rear wheel (with your hand; doing it with the engine is a good way to lose a finger) while rubbing the chain with the rag. A Grunge Brush is also handy, although more apropos for offroading when you get crud really lodged in there. Afterwards, use another rag to remove the residual kerosene. Then take your fave brand of chain lube (I've tried Chain Wax and PJ-1 blue label; 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other; they both 'fling' less than some other lubes; I'm trying a more solid race lube on the SV and GS, and I'll let you know how that one comes out) and squirt the chain on all sides (I do one side for a full chain revolution, then another side for a full chain revolution, etc.). Wipe off all of the crap that you got on the rear wheel.

It's best to do that after you've ridden the bike, so the chain is warm, and before you put it away, so the carriers will have time to evaproate off and leave a layer of lube on the chain.

Optimus Prime · 08-12-2005, 03:38 PM

I've never owned a non-shaft drive bike.

Chains

John V · 08-12-2005, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Optimus Prime

I've never owned a non-shaft drive bike.

Chains

Shaft drive is great until you go to get on the power when leaned over.

Not fun for sporty riding.

I should have clarified. I use a toothbrush and kerosene to get the gunk off, then wipe down, then apply chain lube, then wipe off.

Apparently, Motul makes a chain lube that works great and doesn't fling a whole lot. I've been using the PJ-1 and haven't been that happy with it.

JV

Roadstergal · 08-12-2005, 04:34 PM

Which label of PJ-1? I've heard black is bad for fling.

Chains transfer power well and are light and simple. There's a reason the competitive racing bikes aren't shaft drive. It does require more regular maintenance, which is the reason I went to shaft on the commuter.

John V · 08-12-2005, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadstergal

Which label of PJ-1? I've heard black is bad for fling.

Why does it always have to be a race issue?

It is black.

Roadstergal · 08-12-2005, 05:17 PM

Ja, try the blue.
Or - wait until I try this other stuff this weekend, and remember what it's called.

08-12-2005, 03:15 PM	#1
John V No more BMWs Join Date: Apr 2005 Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8 Location: Glenwood, MD Posts: 14,753	Chain cleaning Okay, big reality check when I bought the SV. I hadn't cleaned a drive chain in years. (XS400 and XS650 had them, but the XJ700X had a driveshaft). What are y'all using to clean your chains? I talked to a technician many moons ago who suggested using kerosene and a toothbrush. Kerosene has some degree of lubrication ability built in, and it's a great solvent that won't degrade the o-ring seals. It's worked very well for me, but does anyone think it's a bad idea? I've got 3k on the bike and after five chain cleanings it feels and looks to be in good shape. Suzuki specifies cleaning the chain every 600 miles. For a while I was cleaning it every couple weeks. The most irritating part is cleaning the "fling" from the chain lube off the wheel and rear brake.

08-12-2005, 03:34 PM	#3
Roadstergal Butting in. Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA Posts: 4,553	Cleaning and lubing are two different processes. Don't do one without the other. Kerosene is what the manual says to use to clean on every chain-drive bike I've had. Pop it on the centerstand (or rearstand, for SVs), put some newspaper down, wet a rag with kerosene, spin the rear wheel (with your hand; doing it with the engine is a good way to lose a finger) while rubbing the chain with the rag. A Grunge Brush is also handy, although more apropos for offroading when you get crud really lodged in there. Afterwards, use another rag to remove the residual kerosene. Then take your fave brand of chain lube (I've tried Chain Wax and PJ-1 blue label; 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other; they both 'fling' less than some other lubes; I'm trying a more solid race lube on the SV and GS, and I'll let you know how that one comes out) and squirt the chain on all sides (I do one side for a full chain revolution, then another side for a full chain revolution, etc.). Wipe off all of the crap that you got on the rear wheel. It's best to do that after you've ridden the bike, so the chain is warm, and before you put it away, so the carriers will have time to evaproate off and leave a layer of lube on the chain. __________________ The question is not whether I've treated you rudely, but whether you've ever heard me treat anyone else better. -H. Higgins

08-12-2005, 03:38 PM	#4
Optimus Prime Carmudgeon Join Date: Apr 2005 Carmudgeonly Ride: Golf TDi Location: Peoria, IL Posts: 3,283	I've never owned a non-shaft drive bike. Chains __________________ Jason

08-12-2005, 04:34 PM	#6
Roadstergal Butting in. Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA Posts: 4,553	Which label of PJ-1? I've heard black is bad for fling. Chains transfer power well and are light and simple. There's a reason the competitive racing bikes aren't shaft drive. It does require more regular maintenance, which is the reason I went to shaft on the commuter. __________________ The question is not whether I've treated you rudely, but whether you've ever heard me treat anyone else better. -H. Higgins

08-12-2005, 05:17 PM	#8
Roadstergal Butting in. Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA Posts: 4,553	Ja, try the blue. Or - wait until I try this other stuff this weekend, and remember what it's called. __________________ The question is not whether I've treated you rudely, but whether you've ever heard me treat anyone else better. -H. Higgins