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Old 08-16-2013, 11:27 AM   #1
Theo
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M5 pads and rotor's

Ok it's finally almost that time.

I did a search on tire rack and got this:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...3&autoModClar=

Since its been SO long since I have dealt with breaks (I think in 2006 on my E36) can anyone makes suggestions.

Pads: Least amount of dust and quiet with better then average performance. That leaves any ceramic pads out right?

Rotors: Just go stock or is there any real improvement with cross drilled?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:37 AM   #2
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The Hawk Performance Ceramic pads are pretty good once they bed in. The stoptechs are *ok*, but at least they are so cheap that hey are practically free.

Buy the rotors from RockAuto. They are stupid cheap for centric hardware (get the centric high carbon rotors) - they will also have the Stoptech pads and possibly the Hawks.
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:48 AM   #3
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The Hawk Performance Ceramic pads are pretty good once they bed in. The stoptechs are *ok*, but at least they are so cheap that hey are practically free.

Buy the rotors from RockAuto. They are stupid cheap for centric hardware (get the centric high carbon rotors) - they will also have the Stoptech pads and possibly the Hawks.
Great info. Thanks

What's the advantage of those rotors over stock?

This may not be as expensive as I first feared.
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:57 AM   #4
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Also for shits and giggles if I keep the M5 (Its really been a great car and there is nothing wrong with it) I would also need to replace the struts and shocks. Original as far as I can tell.

Are the Koni yellows still the best deal for the street?

I just replaced the clutch and pressure plate recently and if I do the brakes and suspension (All not covered under the warranty as ware items) then she should be good to go for some time.

The warranty runs out the end of April 2014. The only thing I can think of to try and make them replace that has not been addressed already is some of the cooling system pieces.

Again thanks for any feedback.
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Old 08-16-2013, 12:58 PM   #5
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You may want to have them test the AC system. I had all the mechanicals for the AC in my E39 replaced a few months after I bought the car (so it was still under the OEM warranty, and CPO hadn't kicked in). For some reason, many of the internal components had rusted, so the compressor, evaporator and all lines had to be replaced. The dealer brought it to my attention -- I had it in for service and it failed to produce the required temps, and they noticed the rust when they did some additional digging. Oddly, we had just gotten back from a long road trip (AZ to CA, up the 101 to Pebble Beach Concours, and a few days in your neck of the woods playing tourist in SF, Napa and Sonoma) -- and we never noticed the AC not working well, so I'm guessing they caught is fairly early.

I don't know if that AC issue was common or not -- but might be worth a check.

The other thing you may want to check is the steering bushings (might not have the right name). They commonly go bad on E39s and start leaking oil. I had the passenger side replaced on mine when it started to leak -- I had noticed a small oil leak on my garage floor just inside the front tire "spot"...
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theo View Post
Great info. Thanks

What's the advantage of those rotors over stock?

This may not be as expensive as I first feared.
The Centric High Carbon rotors are just the best made of their standard blanks. Their virtues are that they are comparable to stock and silly cheap.
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theo View Post
Also for shits and giggles if I keep the M5 (Its really been a great car and there is nothing wrong with it) I would also need to replace the struts and shocks. Original as far as I can tell.

Are the Koni yellows still the best deal for the street?

I just replaced the clutch and pressure plate recently and if I do the brakes and suspension (All not covered under the warranty as ware items) then she should be good to go for some time.

The warranty runs out the end of April 2014. The only thing I can think of to try and make them replace that has not been addressed already is some of the cooling system pieces.

Again thanks for any feedback.
If you decide to hold onto it, I'd do the water pump, expansion tank and fan clutch as well. I know a lot of people do the radiator too, I've never had a problem with the radiator itself, just the expansion tank and hose. Mine has also been completely issue free (knock on wood)
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Old 08-16-2013, 02:47 PM   #8
Theo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZBB View Post
You may want to have them test the AC system. I had all the mechanicals for the AC in my E39 replaced a few months after I bought the car (so it was still under the OEM warranty, and CPO hadn't kicked in). For some reason, many of the internal components had rusted, so the compressor, evaporator and all lines had to be replaced. The dealer brought it to my attention -- I had it in for service and it failed to produce the required temps, and they noticed the rust when they did some additional digging. Oddly, we had just gotten back from a long road trip (AZ to CA, up the 101 to Pebble Beach Concours, and a few days in your neck of the woods playing tourist in SF, Napa and Sonoma) -- and we never noticed the AC not working well, so I'm guessing they caught is fairly early.

I don't know if that AC issue was common or not -- but might be worth a check.

The other thing you may want to check is the steering bushings (might not have the right name). They commonly go bad on E39s and start leaking oil. I had the passenger side replaced on mine when it started to leak -- I had noticed a small oil leak on my garage floor just inside the front tire "spot"...
All good to know and I will bring it up with them. If I keep it I plan on doing the CHECK AND REPLACE anything you can service a month before the warranty runs out.
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Old 08-16-2013, 02:49 PM   #9
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Are the Koni yellows still the best deal for the street?
Unless you need the adjustability for some reason (or just prefer really firm shocks on the street), I'd go with Koni FSDs.
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Old 08-16-2013, 02:50 PM   #10
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Unless you need the adjustability for some reason (or just prefer really firm shocks on the street), I'd go with Koni FSDs.
Reliability has been a huge issue with FSDs from what I can tell.
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