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Old 01-08-2018, 12:30 PM   #21
wdc330i
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Kinda. I've got a huge propane heater in there (hanging from the ceiling above the workbenches), but I keep it set to a really low temperature and still manually cycle the thermostat when I'm working in there to keep costs low. The detached garage where I'm doing the work is a cinder block building with no insulation and with very drafty old garage doors.

If the air temp is in the 45 degree range I'm perfectly comfortable working in there... the annoying part is the garage is built on a very thick concrete slab and it stays cold basically all year long. Great in the summer (except water condenses on it in the summer) but not great in the winter. Even with ski socks on and work boots my feet get really cold out there.

In the next few years I plan to frame out the walls just enough to put some rigid foam insulation on the walls, replace the old wooden doors with roll-up doors, insulate the attic and epoxy the floors, but I don't know when I'll get to that.
Might consider electric radiant heat for the floors.
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Old 01-08-2018, 12:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by wdc330i View Post
Might consider electric radiant heat for the floors.
goddamn i love the heated floors in my kitchen. Seems like a system like that would be prohibitive without busting up the floors though--are there overlay options?

Short term, maybe radiant mats that you could use to at least have a place to stand/lie on when you're working in one area?
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:05 PM   #23
John V
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It doesn't bother me enough to do something about it
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:30 PM   #24
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It doesn't bother me enough to do something about it
I try to use a couple layers of cardboard underfoot.
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Old 01-08-2018, 03:01 PM   #25
BahnBaum
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Very cool. (thread, not temps)

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Old 01-09-2018, 12:12 PM   #26
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Wow. Impressive.

I’ve got to think that car with >500hp will be formidable. And probably still get better fuel economy than the stock motor.
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:05 PM   #27
John V
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I think it will compete very favorably with the current class leaders which include a very well prepared and driven turbocharged 240SX, several Evos and STis (which have to run much heavier than rear wheel drive cars) and various E36 BMWs. Even with the piston engine it should have a very low center of gravity, much better suspension geometry than any of them and a much stiffer chassis. Even if I'm off by 200lbs on my weight estimate (I don't think I am) then I'll at worst be on even ground with the BMWs and the 240.

A local salvage yard has a complete 2.5L engine for $300, so I'm planning to head there on Friday (my day off every two weeks) and snag it.
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Old 01-09-2018, 10:59 PM   #28
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I'm just glad that engine hoist had at least one more pull in it. Something about using a HF tool to hold up hundreds of pounds chest high just gives me the hebejebes.
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Old 01-09-2018, 11:10 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by John V View Post
I think it will compete very favorably with the current class leaders which include a very well prepared and driven turbocharged 240SX, several Evos and STis (which have to run much heavier than rear wheel drive cars) and various E36 BMWs. Even with the piston engine it should have a very low center of gravity, much better suspension geometry than any of them and a much stiffer chassis. Even if I'm off by 200lbs on my weight estimate (I don't think I am) then I'll at worst be on even ground with the BMWs and the 240.

A local salvage yard has a complete 2.5L engine for $300, so I'm planning to head there on Friday (my day off every two weeks) and snag it.
What kind of boost setup do you need to make that kind of power?
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Old 01-10-2018, 06:32 AM   #30
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I'm planning to use a Borg Warner EFR7163 turbo running about 21lbs of boost peak.

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