Question 1: BMW Longevity / Ownership Issues? - Page 3

JST · 01-23-2006, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lupinsea

Oh, shocks! As a consumable every 30-40k would it make sense to replace the OEM spec shock with an aftermarket variety that perhaps will last longer? Or do they all pretty much need replacement at 30-40k?

One of the good things about the Konis is that they cost less than OEM and last much longer.

rumatt · 01-23-2006, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lupinsea

Oh, shocks! As a consumable every 30-40k would it make sense to replace the OEM spec shock with an aftermarket variety that perhaps will last longer? Or do they all pretty much need replacement at 30-40k?

Koni have a lifetime warranty IF you buy new. (original owner only). Supposidly they last a "long" time, but I don't know what that really means.

robg · 01-23-2006, 04:43 PM

Its actually the front control arm bushings that wear out-- but you can't buy them separately so you have to replace the whole arm. There is an aftermarket solution, I think Bavarian Autosport carries arms from Miele that have a replaceable (and heavier duty) bushing so you can sovle this problem once and for all.

The rear shock mounts are also fairly weak-- many buy M3 shock mounts. Also, strut tower braces or reinforcemnts help prevent struts from deforming the strut tower (another E46 weakness).

Later e46 cooling systems (especially on manual cars taht don't have the engine mounted fan that puts strain on the water pump bearings), should be pretty reliable. Its just that, at this point, no one trusts any BMW cooling system component to last more than about 70k. So, the conventional wisdom, is just to replace it all and preventive maintenance. Its more necessary on the e39 and e38, but I wouldn't want to push my luck w/ any e46 either.

I agree- aftermarket shocks are probably the way to go when the OEM ones fail. That actually brings up another point-- that as the e46 matures more aftermarket companies will step in with replacement parts that address BMW's failures. I think we're all waiting fro somone to come out w /aftermarket window regs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lupinsea

Damn, you guys are fast, I just posted this last night. Cool. Thanks a bunch guys.

Considering the mild upgrades to the ZHP I didn't think it would be a big deal but I thought I'd check. If we can find a ZHP for a good price then I think I'll go with that. I find it a VERY sweet package from the suspension tweaks to the cam and software, and the wheels. Very nice.

It also looks like there are some common wear items that I just need to be ready for. I've read the write ups on the control arm replacement, that looks easy enough given time for a learning curve. Althought I thought it was the rear bushings that go out. Plaz just mentioned something about the arms "snapping" potentially? Never heard about that aspect.

And I'd heard about the window regulators and a little about the cooling system. Does the whole system really need to be replace (incl radiator?) I thought it was just the water pumps that tend to go bad.... something about the impeller.

Oh, and would it be worth it to pick up a code reader tool of some kind to plug into the car's OBD?? system? Thinking this may save money after a few readings vs. taking it into the dealer.

Oh, shocks! As a consumable every 30-40k would it make sense to replace the OEM spec shock with an aftermarket variety that perhaps will last longer? Or do they all pretty much need replacement at 30-40k?

rumatt · 01-23-2006, 05:02 PM

Speaking of control arms:

For those over the age of 15: ** E46 Fanatics warning **

Shop charges $749 for new control arms

lupinsea · 01-23-2006, 09:42 PM

Hm, that Bavarian Autosport seems like a good resource. They had the Meyle HD bushing replacement control arms for $150 ea, cheaper than the $200 ea being quoted by guys in Rumatt's thread link.

Apart from doing the diagnosis outlined by ///Mechanic in the thread how can you tell the control arms are going? Loose feeling steering? Clunking noise? This is more of a question of what should I look for on the test drive.

I'd be inclined to do this repair myself given a day (weekend?) to fart around with the car. Things always take longer than I figure.

Robg, (or anyone else) when you talk about the "later E46 cooling system" being more reliable what years are you talking about? '01 and up? '03 and up?

John V · 01-23-2006, 10:05 PM

How are these things going out so early?

The front arms in the vastly inferior, cost-saving, underdesigned low-point of BMW engineering known as the E36 M3 are known to last past 100k.

I checked the front arms on my "only driven on sundays" M3 before selling it and my prybar didn't detect any inner or outer ball joint wear nor any excessive lollipop bushing deflection.

Jason C · 01-23-2006, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robg

The rear shock mounts are also fairly weak-- many buy M3 shock mounts. Also, strut tower braces or reinforcemnts help prevent struts from deforming the strut tower (another E46 weakness).

Yes to all. Also the "pound the deformed tower back to normal and then install reinforcements+braces" is a common fix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by robg

Its just that, at this point, no one trusts any BMW cooling system component to last more than about 70k.

Sad but true. Cooling system maintenance should not be neglected, especially with aluminum-blocked engines (even moreso with newer aluminum engines that are styrofoam cast). An overheat might be survivable with an iron block, however the newer aluminum blocks tend to burn oil excessively after an overheat - usually results in buying a new engine.

rumatt · 01-23-2006, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John V

the vastly inferior, cost-saving, underdesigned low-point of BMW engineering known as the E36 M3

Quote:

Originally Posted by lupinsea

I'd be inclined to do this repair myself given a day (weekend?) to fart around with the car.

OK, you're used-BMW material. Buy a ZHP!

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMW Tech

especially with aluminum-blocked engines (even moreso with newer aluminum engines that are styrofoam cast). An overheat might be survivable with an iron block, however the newer aluminum blocks tend to burn oil excessively after an overheat - usually results in buying a new engine.

Good to know!

lemming · 01-23-2006, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John V

....in the vastly inferior, cost-saving, underdesigned low-point of BMW engineering known as the E36 M3 are known to last past 100k.

i didn't think it was as such when i owned one, but it's very context dependent, isn't it?

John V · 01-24-2006, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lemming

i didn't think it was as such when i owned one, but it's very context dependent, isn't it?

Mike Miller is all-knowing God.

01-23-2006, 05:02 PM	#24
rumatt Mugwump Join Date: Oct 2003 Carmudgeonly Ride: E46 330i, Chevy Colorado, Tesla Model 3 Location: NY Posts: 17,475	Speaking of control arms: For those over the age of 15: E46 Fanatics warning Shop charges $749 for new control arms

01-23-2006, 09:42 PM	#25
lupinsea Jeeped Join Date: Sep 2005 Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata Location: Seattle Posts: 10,214	Hm, that Bavarian Autosport seems like a good resource. They had the Meyle HD bushing replacement control arms for $150 ea, cheaper than the $200 ea being quoted by guys in Rumatt's thread link. Apart from doing the diagnosis outlined by ///Mechanic in the thread how can you tell the control arms are going? Loose feeling steering? Clunking noise? This is more of a question of what should I look for on the test drive. I'd be inclined to do this repair myself given a day (weekend?) to fart around with the car. Things always take longer than I figure. Robg, (or anyone else) when you talk about the "later E46 cooling system" being more reliable what years are you talking about? '01 and up? '03 and up?

01-23-2006, 10:05 PM	#26
John V No more BMWs Join Date: Apr 2005 Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8 Location: Glenwood, MD Posts: 14,753	How are these things going out so early? The front arms in the vastly inferior, cost-saving, underdesigned low-point of BMW engineering known as the E36 M3 are known to last past 100k. I checked the front arms on my "only driven on sundays" M3 before selling it and my prybar didn't detect any inner or outer ball joint wear nor any excessive lollipop bushing deflection.