01-23-2006, 10:18 AM | #11 | |
No more BMWs
Join Date: Apr 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Ram, MS3, CX-5, RX-8
Location: Glenwood, MD
Posts: 14,753
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Giving it a little more thought, I agree 100%. |
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01-23-2006, 10:37 AM | #12 |
Carmudgeon
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,225
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I agree w/ the other posters-- ZHP vs ZSP from a reliability standponit should a non-issue.
BTW, yes, the stalling issue was solved. It turned out to be a bad batch of something called the "DISA valve" that was out of spec. BMW issued a TSB on it, and from what i've read on bimmerfest this seems to have cured the probelm. Do a search on "DISA" if you want to read more. I think the items you should be prepared to deal with when keeping an e46 for 10 years are: -Control arms every 40k ($300 for the set if you DIY) -shocks every 30-40k (Don't know price). -Window regulators every 30k ($80 each of i you DIY) -New cooling system (theromostat, radiator, water pump, hoses) at 60k- as preventive maint (Don't know price--if you DIY, i'd guess around maybe $300). -New brakes every 30k (About $300 in parts for all 4 if you DIY) Other than that, the car should get you to 10 years with no problem. You may also have other random issues, but the list above is what you should expect going in (in the same way that you expect to change oil). |
01-23-2006, 10:41 AM | #13 | |
Mugwump
Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: E46 330i, Chevy Colorado, Tesla Model 3
Location: NY
Posts: 17,475
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Rob, do you happen to know if the problem was specific to ZHP's? Very occasionally, my car (ZSP) sputters at red lights and gets very near stalling. EDIT: This guy claims he still has problems after DISA fix. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=105979 |
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01-23-2006, 10:43 AM | #14 | |
Carmudgeon
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,225
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EDIT: Yeah, I think some peopel still said they had issues-- but my recollection was tht the majority of people had the problem solved. It seems like its worht a shot if you're having stalling issues. |
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01-23-2006, 10:51 AM | #15 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: '11 1M
Location: Churzee
Posts: 17,741
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- No control arm problems yet - No window regulator problems yet - Water pump and thermostat replaced Guess I'm just lucky.
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2011 1M |
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01-23-2006, 12:40 PM | #16 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 13,514
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01-23-2006, 12:44 PM | #17 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: '11 1M
Location: Churzee
Posts: 17,741
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Quote:
I'm planning on getting a full knowledgeable inspection this spring, if I can find a really good independent BMW guy in Jersey.
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2011 1M |
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01-23-2006, 12:48 PM | #18 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 13,514
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I'd say that sounds like an excellent idea. That way you can start knocking off the little things that are soon to need replacement, as time and money permit. Sure beats being broken down on the side of the highway. |
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01-23-2006, 12:50 PM | #19 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Carmudgeonly Ride: '11 1M
Location: Churzee
Posts: 17,741
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Quote:
I'd hate to experience a control arm snapping at 85mph on the interstate.
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01-23-2006, 01:25 PM | #20 |
Jeeped
Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
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Damn, you guys are fast, I just posted this last night. Cool. Thanks a bunch guys.
Considering the mild upgrades to the ZHP I didn't think it would be a big deal but I thought I'd check. If we can find a ZHP for a good price then I think I'll go with that. I find it a VERY sweet package from the suspension tweaks to the cam and software, and the wheels. Very nice. It also looks like there are some common wear items that I just need to be ready for. I've read the write ups on the control arm replacement, that looks easy enough given time for a learning curve. Althought I thought it was the rear bushings that go out. Plaz just mentioned something about the arms "snapping" potentially? Never heard about that aspect. And I'd heard about the window regulators and a little about the cooling system. Does the whole system really need to be replace (incl radiator?) I thought it was just the water pumps that tend to go bad.... something about the impeller. Oh, and would it be worth it to pick up a code reader tool of some kind to plug into the car's OBD?? system? Thinking this may save money after a few readings vs. taking it into the dealer. Oh, shocks! As a consumable every 30-40k would it make sense to replace the OEM spec shock with an aftermarket variety that perhaps will last longer? Or do they all pretty much need replacement at 30-40k? |
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