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Old 06-19-2018, 03:01 PM   #11
ff
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Does your certification allow you to drive to my house and fix my car?
I think it requires him to.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by zach View Post
Hmm, I'm stumped.
Well, I didn't do it yet, so....
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Old 06-19-2018, 04:02 PM   #13
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If I put race pads on the car, drive around for a while, and the vibration is gone then it blows a hole in the damaged caliper theory, right?
depends how they heat up and how they are worn... ie: if they are significantly thinner than your current pads, they may not drag (or drag as much) and not cause the rotors to heat.

Does it do it all the time / everytime, or only after they warm up? Does it matter how hard you press the brakes (does it get worse if you press harder or does it only start after a certain amount of pressure)? Any residual vibration not under braking?
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:25 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Josh (PA) View Post
Does it do it all the time / everytime, or only after they warm up? Does it matter how hard you press the brakes (does it get worse if you press harder or does it only start after a certain amount of pressure)? Any residual vibration not under braking?
It's there all the time. Any speed, any pressure. But as you would expect, the vibrations are faster at higher speeds, and stronger under firm braking.

Braking hard at high speed sucks, and makes me curse at my rotors.
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:41 PM   #15
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What brake pads are you using?
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:32 PM   #16
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Textar.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-textar-p...116779652~tex/
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:13 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by rumatt View Post
It's there all the time. Any speed, any pressure. But as you would expect, the vibrations are faster at higher speeds, and stronger under firm braking.

Braking hard at high speed sucks, and makes me curse at my rotors.
I've had this forever. Dealer replaced rotors (and eventually calipers / mounting hardware) multiple times under new car warranty. Out of warranty, I tried various combinations of OEM / aftermarket rotors / calipers, and nothing fixes it 100%. I get the best results with Bavarian Autosport slotted + drilled rotors and OEM pads (had tried various aftermarket pads).

A good re-bedding clears the problem up for a while, then it comes back. So definitely not warpage - just some sort of build-up on the rotors.
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Old 06-20-2018, 11:17 AM   #18
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Installed four new rotors and pads on the f10 535i at 49k miles. It was pulsing badly and the rotors were visibly rusty. I used Zimmermann rotors and I think Textar (OEM-equivalent) pads. After a few thousand miles, the pulsing is coming back.... To top it off, I'm feeling very slight pulsing on the Boxster (at 17k miles).

Could bad roads (braking on bumps e.g.) cause issues over time? I see a commonality among Rumatt, Terry and I and that's where we live and drive.

I'm paranoid about holding down the brake pedal at a stop, will occasionally use hand brake or move car a bit to avoid hot spots.
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Old 06-20-2018, 11:32 AM   #19
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I also have Zimmerman rotors.

My theory on the commonality is that we don't drive our cars every day. My theory is that the rotors get slightly rusty from rain / humidity, but not in the spot where the pads are resting on the rotors. Driving scrapes the rust off off the rest, but the rotor is never the same from that point forward.

Should I do an experiment where I remove my brake pads every time I park the car?
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Old 06-20-2018, 01:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumatt View Post
Should I do an experiment where I remove my brake pads every time I park the car?
Double blind . . .you'll have to remove the rotors too
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