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Old 05-14-2009, 03:51 PM   #9
lupinsea
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Carmudgeonly Ride: Modified Jeep Tj and '07 Miata
Location: Seattle
Posts: 10,214
I'm not necessarily trying to defend this thing but it seems like a neat idea for an occasional-use lift.

To me the lift idea makes sense. With a 4-post lift or even most normal 2-post lifts they take up space in the the garage. If you have a big enough garage or several garage bays that you can devote one to the lift then this thing is pointless.

But if you have a single car garage and/or are tight on space this makes a ton of sense to me. I use my garage as a place to work on my cars as well as a general project space. Actually, most of the time it is a general project space that I use occasionally to work on my cars. It would be nice to be able to move the lift out of the way so I can have an unencombered works space for other things.

All this for $2k?

Doesn't seem too horrible and about what a "normal" lift runs. And I haven't seen other lifts on the market that offer the same flexibility. Granted, I haven't really been looking.

And the lift height seems fine to me. 36" is the height of a kitchen counter and I can sit on the ground comfortably without my head poking above the counter top. 45" offers plenty of room to sit and work on things under there and I think plenty of room to be able to pull out components from under the car (drivelines, transmissions, axles, etc.).

Rob makes a good point with lift height limitations anyways due to most garages not having all that much room due to either low-ish ceiling height or the garage door track/mechanism.







Quote:
Originally Posted by BahnBaum View Post
I didn't realize it was anchored. I thought you set it up when you wanted to use it. I admittedly only looked at the picture.

alex
That's part of the problem . . .

Each post of the lift has 5 anchor bolts permanently embedded in the concrete, and each bolt has a pull-out resistance of 14,800 lb. in tension (11,800 lb in shear). The system is designed to work with a 4" thick concrete slab with 2500-3000 psi strength concrete (which is usually the bare minium rating concrete yards ship out in their trucks). It's also the minimum rating of the cheap-ass bagged concrete you get at Home Depot. So the system was designed for typical concrete slabs. I wouldn't install this in my current garage because my slab is cracked too much for my comfort. But you can retro-fit your existing garage by cuting and pouring larger "feet" in your existing slab.

The anchor bolts are internally threaded. Once they are set you have a hole in the concrete with an anchor bolt in it that has female threads that is permenantly left in place. Just place the post over the series of anchor bolts and bolt in the 5/8" regular bolts to 100 ft-lb of torque and you're good to go. Unbolt when done and roll the posts out of the way for storage.


Installation Guidlines



Mark location of bolt holes



Rotohammer drill 7/8" holes in concrete



Install the anchor bolts



Place post over anchor bolts.



Tighten down w/ torque wrench


Note that the same basic anchor bolt technology is used when bolting down regular two-post lifts anyways. The only difference is these anchor bolts have internal threads that accept a secondary bolt to allow repeated installtion and removal of fixtures (the lift) without screwing up the concrete.




And general FYI . . .


Yes, there are saftey blocks. . . that's what the red handle is
in this photo. Also, loking at the rest of the construction I'd
suspect this is built fairly stout.
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