Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy
The Sears link is a session that timed out.
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Sorry, it was a Craftsman 1/2 in. Drive Flex Head Quick Release Teardrop Ratchet.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy
Yup, exhaust stuff is generally the worst part to work on. The nature of the system means that the fittings are generally corroded and frozen.
The worst experience I had with an exhaust involved a pair of crowfoot wrenches in wobble sockets.  I bet you can guess which car... 
Got a code reader? If not, have your Autozone read it for free.
Depending on what goes wrong with the sensor, it can lead to a gradual deterioration of its ability to report accurate information to the engine management computer. The computer is supposed to set the CEL if it determines that the car is operating outside the allowable emission standards.
The computer also adapts over time, but within what it thinks are acceptable limits. This compensates for normal wear, individual manufacturing variations of the various components, and so on. |
My buddy has one. But I later found through
here (and the manual, had I read it) that the car will spit out the codes if you play with the key.
The codes are P0161 and P0158, both of which relate to the sensor I replaced.
But if you look at the section on clearing the codes, it reads:
After three good trips the MIL is extinguished and the Task Manager automatically switches the trip counter to a warm-up cycle counter. DTCs are automatically erased following 40 warm-up cycles if the component does not fail again.
DTCs can be erased anytime with a DRB III. Erasing the DTC with the DRB III erases all OBD II information. The DRB III automatically displays a warning that erasing the DTC will also erase all OBD II monitor data. This includes all counter information for warm-up cycles, trips and Freeze Frame.
I can unplug the battery and it will clear the codes. This is what I did as my inspection sticker was due, but I got bagged and was told I had to drive 150 miles and come back. Of course the light eventually came back on. I didn't care because I wanted to fix this anyway. I just wanted more time. But the rejection sticker only gives me 30 days before I have to pay the fee again.
If I clear the codes via a reader or battery, I will need to drive another 150 miles. It seems from that paragraph that three good trips will clear the fault as well. Maybe I'm reading it wrong.