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Old 04-14-2017, 11:54 AM   #12
Biggins
Crotchety
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Carmudgeonly Ride: 22 Tiguan, 11 328i
Posts: 912
Quote:
Originally Posted by bren View Post
Oh, and don't get a z06, your driving style won't work very well - ask me how I know.
I've only ever driven a regular C6. It seemed fine, but it wasn't for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John V View Post
One of the things we always ask in the morning at the Evo schools is "How many of you think your car understeers?" We ask the same question at the end of the day and get a lot fewer people raising their hand. I agree with Bren's assessment, you might be standing the car on its nose and snapping the throttle open which can cause oversteer. Or it could be as simple as you're not unwinding the wheel. Do you have any video?

Positive toe on the alignment sheet is toe-in. Negative is toe-out. So you have about 1/8" of total rear toe-in, which doesn't sound excessive to me, but I like to run as close to zero toe in the rear as I can get away with. Now, more rear toe-out will make the car looser on corner exit and in transitions but theoretically the car will slalom faster like that. I like to be able to hammer on the car through slaloms and not have it come around on me. If I can't do that, I'll make shock changes until I can.

Look up some shock dyno curves for your shocks and see what the rebound curves look like at full stiff versus full soft. I don't remember how single-adjustable Koni curves look.
I'd have to dig for some video. Craig and I would run video, but I haven't for a couple years. I do find myself making more steering corrections in sweepers than I should. Maybe I should get a GoPro and pay closer attention.

I would love to have a little more slalom stability, but I'm just afraid it would be rough in the sweeping turns. I'm glad I have this test tomorrow to play with things. I know that the re-valved Konis that some have been running seem to be much better than the OTS, but I have not driven one with those quite yet.

I'll play around this weekend a bit more, but I think a quick change to the stiff setting and going closer to 0 toe will be my first move besides working on the driving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clyde View Post
Be careful when looking at bar specs. Rate matters more than thickness or outer diameter. A "smaller" hollow bar with a greater wall thickness may have a higher rate than a bigger bar. It's not always easy to get that info.
The FT86 forums actually have a really good dataset of bar stiffness levels. I'm not sure how scientific, but it seems accurate. No one who is competitive runs a bar larger than Sam's in Street, but a few brands' 20-22mm bars seem to be the sweet spot (with/without the rear TRD bar).

Thanks again! I'll report back if I notice anything else.
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