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Old 02-21-2019, 10:42 PM   #168
Nick M3
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Bethesda, MD
Posts: 12,453
Quote:
Originally Posted by John V View Post
Non-insulated crimp terminals. Basically a barrel sized for whatever gauge wiring you're working with. Peter suggested to me that he's used these for years and they're very robust. I don't like soldered connections for automotive use because they are brittle. Ballenger sells these. So does Digi-Key.



https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...3nunug5gc0niq0



The wiring is needed for the Haltech. Once I had the car running on the stock Mazda ECU I could have just used that as the basis for tuning the engine, but it lacks a few features that I wanted. First being flex fuel capability (E85 or a blend of it). Second being anti-lag for the turbo and third being launch / traction control. I ended up picking the Haltech because it has all of those features natively built-in.



It's a universal harness and a universal ECU. Meaning, it has 'X' available analog inputs, 'Y' available digital outputs, and requires certain voltage and trigger inputs to work, like a crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, water temp, TPS, etc. The end user determines how many widgets they want to control (like wastegate solenoids, the alternator, etc) and how many additional inputs they want (like oil temp and pressure sensors, fuel composition sensors, etc). The end user then wires them up appropriately, configures them in the software, loads that tune to the ECU and goes from there.
Ah. I was wondering if there was a specific one that he particularly likes. Is there a meaningful advantage to these vs. ones with the heat shrink already on? That’s what I generally live with.
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