Let me put it this way: On 2014 date coded PSS, in 60 degree weather, the E90 doesn’t get forward traction until 3rd gear. The DWS all seasons hook up fine (blinks lights in first, but no intrusive interference). Yes, the PSS have more cornering traction, but it’s hard to get over effectively losing the use of the engine in most conditions. Likewise, I have 2009 date coded Conti DWs that still feel good on the E30 M3.

And keep in mind that the e90 M3, coded to Euro mode has extremely permissive traction control.

I don’t understand your infatuation with babying the battery.

It’s ok to take it below 20% and over 80%. What you don’t want to do is let it sit at 100% for long periods. That’s why Tesla defaults to a 90% charge. Keeping it closer to an average state of charge of 50% is best for the battery — but that’s based on time.

I put 93k miles on a Model S 60 (which had 208 miles range) over 5 1/4 years. I also normally charged it to 90%, and only charged to 100% when I needed to for a road trip. I typically would plug in anywhere between 25% and 60% to charge, so probably had an average state of charge of 60-something percent (since that is really hard to measure...). I occasionally took it below 10%. When I sold the car, it had <10% degradation - my last 100% charge was 188 miles.

I never said I don't ever take it out of that range. But I don't plan to do it for my daily driving.

Where do you see that? Elon has commented that 80-->30 is better than 90-40 for daily commute
https://twitter.com/elonmusk/status/448466037441179649

That's a nontrivial amount. :dunno:

I very very much doubt that you will gain anywhere near 20% range between ps4s and primacy. If you look at tirerack mpg tests, the spread is 3mpg at the 20's. I'd say maybe 5%. Is that worth it? Just drive th wheels and tires you have. The 19's might be a little more comfortable, but I also doubt it's worth switching down. Most of the stiffness is coming from the suspension, no?

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Oh I'm not worrier about the stiffness. It's shockingly comfortable. I'm just worried the wheels are going to get destroyed.

But I might just gamble and see what happens.

Slow down a bit, avoid what you can. The rest is for wheel repair. Are 19s going to be magically stronger? Only a bit. Also keep the winter set on a bit longer while they patch it up in the spring.

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After this thread I decided I was going to sell the 20's and buy some 18's. Not worth driving around in such low profile tires.

But then I got lazy and never managed to find a buyer, and it's almost June.. so I decided to put the 20's back on until I fugue out what I'm doing.

Literally the next day after swapping them on I hit a pothole and dented 1, possibly 2 wheels.

Here's to excellent decision making and hindsight being 20-20

Are Tesla wheels really that shitty, or are the roads around you that bad?

The Tesla wheels really are that shitty

Suckage, but still a matter of probabilities.

Boxster is right at 20k. I've 3-4 bad hits, lost 2 tires (one to a bubble, the other I don't remember), but only one very minor bend (not visible, saw on the balancer on the inside barrel). Fortunately, it can be balanced out. 20's with 35 profile do suck in that sense.

Do 19's ensure no bends? Maybe fewer but not sure by how much. The 19's on my 5 (with 40 sidewall) were getting beat up as well by the best that Hudson, Bergen and NYC/LI can throw at them.

Porsche wheels are stronger than bmw, and the car is lighter so that helps.