Transmission question for the car guru's
 

I found a guy selling an 1990 E30 325is with 200K miles, but he says there's a problem with the clutch/transmission. Basically, the car doesn't want to go in gear: any gear. When you're in neutral and you try to push it into gear, it grinds and/or resists. Then, it will suddenly pop in.

Sounds like worn synchros to me, but isn't there a separate syncro for each gear? He said it's in every gear. He said his dealer wanted to take apart the clutch and look, but he decided to sell the car instead.

Any ideas what this could be? Is it possible that a new clutch (which the car would likely need soon anyway) might solve the problem? Any kind of internal transmission troubleshooting sounds like lots and lots of $$$$.

Possibly an answer to my own question: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...p;postcount=17

He did say it was easier to shift into gear with the engine not running.

There's a lot more which could cause that problem that wasn't mentioned in the linked post.

So it does (eventually) shift into the gear(s) sucessfully? Could be-

-Clutch adjustment incorrect
-Clutch linkage binding
-Shift rail binding
-Internal bind in transmission/transaxle caused by shift forks, selector plates, or synchronizer assemblies
-Clutch housing misalignment
-Incorrect lubricant

It's probably an issue with the clutch, although I wouldn't rule anything out yet. Also, the "easier to shift into gear with the engine not running" is rubbish. All conventional H-gate manuals should be able to do this, the input shaft is not spinning so there's nothing clashing against the synchronizer sleeves.

Thanks... Any guess at how hard this would be to trouble shoot? Would you consider it a high risk of being an unresolvable PITA problem?

Or said another way, if you thought a car was worth $3500 if the problem didn't exist, would you:

a) walk away
b) offer $X less than $3500 (specify X) :D

Given my lack of knowledge in the whole area, I'll probably pass. I'm just wondering if this is actually a good deal on an otherwise desireable car. In some sense it's an opportunity to get a "discounted" new clutch (since the price of the car is reduced for repairs, so you might as well slip in a new clutch while you're in there ).

I would choose b). The problem is, not only do I have the tools and facilities available to me that would make b) a relatively painless decision, but I would choose b) anyway just to get the experience from diagnosing, R&Ring, and test-driving the car myself to solve the problem.

I would not consider this "a high risk of being an unresolvable PITA problem" simply because having acess to vehicle lifts and instructors with decades of experience means that problems are unlikely to be unsolved for long. Plus, it's a conventional manual transmission - I don't consider it on the same level as trying to hunt down some drivability issue and having to go through the DIS.

If you 1) want to drive the car now 2) don't have access to what I mentioned above 3) don't want to DIY it 4) don't want to pay to have it fixed, then I would pass.

If you choose b), I would offer him $3,000, maybe less. I would probably take $3,000 because I know it can be fixed quickly.

If I were you I'd probably choose a). Why are you considering this one? Is it that good (transmission problems notwithstanding)?

That's probably what I will do.

Decent, but not great. My only reason for considering it is that it seems like a potential opportunity for a good deal because the problem may scare away a lot of potential buyers. But buying a used car is already a big risk, so I'm williing to increase the risk slightly if it will likely result in a great deal. I would probably offer him $2500 max though (out of the hypothetical $3500 price).

But the car is high mileage, and actually has other problems also, so I think I will pass.

You can get a used tranny here:

http://www.theeurodepot.com/usede3023.html

$395.

Sounds like a clutch problem. If the clutch won't release, the gers will grind even with good syncrhos. Just like sitting an brand new car, starting it and trying to shove it into gear without pushing in the clutch.

The key yo me, is that it works better with the engine off.

If you feel up to working on it, I would offer an amount that is less than teh asking by the cost of a shop doing the clutch (parts and labor) That way if you infd some other problem, tyou have some slck.

Or offer the cost of clutch AND tranny replacement.

Thanks guys.

Looks like the car already sold, after being listed < 24 hours. :shock:

Welcome to E30 World.

Alex