Anyone up to date on the latest & greatest wax/sealer?
Based on recommendations here, I’ve been using Rejex on the LR4 once a year with great results. Easy to apply and remove and long-lasting. I don’t drive that many miles 5-7k a year, but it is the family truck and winter vehicle.
I’m torn on using it on the M3. I probably should, but it wonder if there is something with a better finish or higher quality than Rejex since I am not after ultimate durability for the M3. Absent a slam dunk suggestion, I’ll default to Rejex. |
I use Griots products (liquid polishes and wax) with a orbital buffer. I find their products do a nice job though they are a little expensive.
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I suppose I could use their liquid wax. |
I use Sonax Polymer Net Shield. Makes rejex look extremely hard to apply. Seems to work about as well.
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There's been a lot of progress in this area in the past few years and there are a ton of options out there. Rejex was great stuff for its day, but that day has passed. There's nothing wrong with it, but it takes more effort than most other coatings, sealants, etc.
I've become quite fond of Meguiars Fast Finish. I think there's better stuff out there, but it's cheap enough, easy enough, and good enough that I don't feel compelled to spend more money to buy more stuff, strip off what's already on the car and try again. Fast Finish...you spray a little on a microfiber, wipe it on the car for a bit (a little goes a really long way). Wipe it off (but I don't think you have to). No buffing, no waiting for it to dry/haze or anything. Lots of products that you now spray on the car while it's wet from washing and then rinse off, too, but haven't used any. Recommend watching some Dallas Paint Correction videos (set playback speed to 1.5x). He's a detailer that started a youtube channel a couple years ago that took off with lots of good comparisons, product tests, explanations of how things work and why, techniques, complaints about the car detailing industry and product manufacturers. He recently started selling his own products and I'm a little wary of him plugging his own stuff in recent videos, but the earlier stuff is all really good and helpful. His style can be a little grating, but if you just let it go, it's tolerable. Over the past 18 months, just about everything I've wanted to try or learn about in the realm of detailing, I've been able to find something in his videos that helped. |
Good to know. Thanks.
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I think I may go for this. Meguiar's M2164 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
It's a giant amount, but apparently the only way to get it and not crazy expensive. I'm thinking it's probably time to retire my Griots Machine polishes (1, 2 & 3) from 15 years ago. I dunno that shaking them will get them back to snuff. I can go Griots again, but Meguiar's Ultimate Polish seems to be highly rated. EDIT: This seems even better |
I think I'm going ceramic with my next round of detailing stuff. Talked to enough detailers to believe the real world benefits.
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There are DIY ceramic treatments that are not cheap, but they seem to have very good results. Mostly what I'm looking for is something I don't have to do very often but which keeps bugs and dirt from sticking. I've gotten some recommendations for DIY stuff that I'm trying to convince myself to pony up the cash for. |
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Well, it's done. Sad to see more rock chips than I'd like, but the car looks great.
Very impressed with the Meguiar's products I used. The 205 polishing compound provided a deep glossy finish while still able to remove remnants of bug splatter form the Fatherland as well as minor scratches. Also, pretty easy to work with and remove. The wax/sealer (M2164) is a revelation. Slightly easier than Rejex to use and absurdly easy to remove. I fully waxed the entire car in under 45 minutes. It looks amazing in person. I hope it lasts. Why anyone would want to use natural carnauba wax is beyond me. That blows. Also, the car has very few areas I had to mask where I did not want wax to get on to. Just the sides of the windshield, the moon roof gasket, and the vents behind the front wheels. Attached photo does not do the car justice, but there it is anyway. |
Your car really looks great, what a beautiful color and the shine coming through in the pictures is just amazing.
Rock chips suck but are a part of life, I had a bunch on the R8 (probably 30 to 40) on the nose and hood. While the Porsche isn't horrible I just had it wet sanded by the rear 'hips' of the car where it had quite a bunch of small little chips. Have you ever considered going with some type of protective material like Xpel ? Did you do the entire job by hand or did you use the Buffer ? |
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In retrospect I might have done it. Also, my foot injury made everything else not matter for a few months. At this point, I don't know that it is worth it. I have the Porter random orbital I bought way back when I got my ZHP in 2003. Still works well. |
Looks awesome from far.
That really is a great color :thumbup: |
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And it's very expensive and you seem to need a bunch. The value proposition is not what it seems. I've bought a lot of car care products over the last 20 years and it's possible that in those two decades I may have cracked $1k, but I doubt it. The idea that people drop "thousands" on that stuff is crazy. I can see that bottle doing one car. Presumably you need to do this 3-4 times a year. That's a couple of hundred bucks a year and far more than I spend on car care. If it works as advertised it is worth it from a time savings sense, but I am skeptical. |
The front, top "cap" of my RV is suffering from being in the sun all the time. The cap is made of fiberglass and I have no idea how to treat/restore it.
I guess that do to my searches, this stuff appeared in my FB feed. The comments on the post all seemed very good, but mostly from motorcycle owners (less metal and fairings to treat I guess) My RV is only a few years old, but the brown color of the front cap is almost completely faded. I tried a tiny spot with Nu Finish, and that helped, but is not the answer. Maybe I should ask at some local marina's as I do live on a huge lake with lots and lots of fiberglass boats |
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As something to very temporarily fill in fine scratches to hide them for a little while? It's not a bad option if that is your narrow and specific goal. Beyond that? Yeah...why bother? :dunno: |
So, I tried Fast Finish today. I ABSOLUTELY HATE IT.
First of all, it does not shine anywhere close to as well as Sonax Polymer Net Shield. Secondly, if you use slightly too much, it dries in place and leaves a foggy film that won’t come off. If you do it right, it might be slightly less work than PNS, but PNS gives way better results and won’t screw you over. |
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I've been using Chemical guys Jet Seal for the past few years. It is a lot easier to use than Rejex in my experience, so long as the car isn't hot when you apply it. I covered the front of the truck in it before Nats because it's always a disaster getting the bugs off when I get home, and it works well for that. Seems to last a long time also, at least for my garaged cars.
Once that runs out I'm definitely going to pony up for one of the better ceramic coatings. I absolutely hate polishing and sealing cars, so something that lasts a year or more is right up my alley. |
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PNS is way friendlier and gives a better shine. |
Ok. Going to revise my review of Fast Finish. It absolutely sucks ass to apply to a single stage paint car. Avoid like the plague. However, it seems fine on modern clear coat.
I’m still not convinced it’s easier or better than Sonal PNS. |
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So, my long term fast finish review is that it definitely does not last as long as PNS. Also, Fast Finish is no longer dtocked by all the parts stores, so you don’t even get the availability advantage.
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PNS - somewhere between 4 and 6 months old.
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