Similar, but it works WAY better on paint.

And no, they don't speed up corrosion. However, when you remove the iron oxide sitting on a steel part, the bare steel is going to rust pretty quickly. Some people like to use Iron-X as a touch up paint prep.

Nick, what polisher and pads do you recommend?

The Porter Cable remains the easy, cheap, and user friendly (i.e won't tear up your paint when used clumsily) option.

Compounds:
CarPro ClearCut is amazing if your paint is basically fucked. I finished with Meguiar's M205, which is excellent and also what I had.

Pad wise, the Meguiar's microfiber cutting pad is a great combo with the ClearCut. I used a Lake Country (I think) green foam pad with the M205 to finish off.

I think that I posted some before / after pictures in the 911 thread.

Aha. I lied. Pictures here:

http://forums.carmudgeons.com/showth...ghlight=carpro

Nick, what say you on this. The Porsche must have a bit of outer plastic bits. My trim level on the GMC has a lot of chrome plated plastic around the windows, and most of the front end.

Some interweb reviews say plastic can turn "white-ish" drawing stuff out of the base plastic quicker than paint on metal

I haven't had that issue, but my cars don't have that much plastic on them.

That stuff smells so good!

NOT!


Does work very good though! One of the worst spots for me is the painted rear view mirrors. And other than the chrome bumper, everything up from on the GMC is plastic.

Next thing on my wish list is a water de-ionizer. My tap water starts life in the lake we live next to, and is hard.

Yeah, don't huff it. :)