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My first thought when I found the rust on the Mazda was "I should buy another old Mazda." I don't think I want to go the LS route, because that would make too much sense. I was actually thinking of doing another Duratec 2.5 swap, except instead of turbocharging it I'd build a high compression street engine. Or maybe a K-series. I wanted to make an S54 work and I think I could, but not easily. I also considered a 3.6L GM V6 swap, as that's becoming more popular in the RX-8 community. But I hate how they sound. |
Ok, new Civic hatch looks…fine. Doesn’t set my world on fire but it’s pleasant. Specs seem decent, too, for a commuter—and this is before we see an Si or Type R version.
https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a3...back-revealed/ |
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The back end looks an awful lot like the Model 3.
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But the Model 3's back end is pretty derivative, and looks quite a bit like a Jetta and...one of the Hyundai's, I can't be bothered to look up which one. Anyway, I'm pretty psyched about this car because it seems like the perfect answer to the "what car to get for a teenager" question, assuming you're going to get a teenager a new car (which I realize is a separate issue). |
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Edit: Here's one in Va. https://www.carmax.com/car/20640276 Not much of a discount off of new, though. |
Civic, Mazda 3, Focus, etc, all make sense to me as cars for new drivers. Something with as many distracted-driver aids as possible. :)
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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 |
Nice. And it's a plus that they don't completely suck to drive. Worst flaw is underpoweredness IMO.
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Well the turbo version fixes the power issue :D
Though I think the new version with a turbo is only available with an auto :( |
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So my trusty Mazdaspeed might not be so trusty after all. It just rolled over 220,000 and recently it has been going through oil at quite a rapid rate yet it doesn't smoke out the exhaust and it doesn't leak. I needed to get it on the lift to swap to the winter tires and change the oil so I gave it a quick checkover. Plugs look good and it's not leaking anything. No oil in the charge pipes, so that's a positive. I did a quick leakdown test and came back with 2% leakdown on cylinders 1, 2 and 4, and 16% on cylinder 3. With pressure applied to number 3 at TDC I can hear air coming out the hole for the oil fill cap. So, that's rings (or more likely a cracked ring land, pretty common on the 2.3 DISI engines).
As crappy as this car is, I kind of like driving it and my wife is a bit attached to it. I also can't easily replace it without spending a pile of money. It still runs fine, I just need to keep an eye on the oil level. I'm seriously contemplating swapping out the 2.3 bottom end for a 2.5 (like I have in the RX-8). They're pretty robust and the local salvage yard has a pile of low mileage units they are happy to sell me for $275 a pop. It would just be a weekend job to yank the 2.3, swap the cylinder head and accessories over to the 2.5, and drop that in. Even in its current state, the 2.3 is worth around $500 so I'd be roughly neutral on cost... it's just a lot of labor. Decisions... |
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If it comes down to a weekend of labor and you like the car, what do you have to lose? It’s probably less effort & stress than you’d put into finding a replacement car right now. |
How come a 2.3 lower end with a cracked ring land is worth the same as a 2.5?
The 2.5s have the same bore, just a different stroke? Seems like a no brainer to do the swap if you’ve got a free weekend. |
I think the answer writes itself
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2.5 is a larger bore (89mm vs 87.5mm) and a larger stroke (100mm vs 94mm). |
Larger bore but the 2.3 head bolts up?
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It rolled over 230,000 on the way to work this morning.
The 2.5L that was supposed to end up in this car is now in the RX-8. With an EcoBoost 2.3 crank and some other goodies. So I guess I need to go pick up another 2.5 :lol: I'd really like to keep this thing on the road long enough that something used and electric (that I wouldn't be ashamed to drive) becomes cheap enough for me to pick up. Figure that's another ~ 3 years, at which point it'll be close to 300k miles. Adding oil every other fuel stop is annoying. |
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