Well, I'm yet to find anyone who makes a shim for my car.

Summit Racing contacted Raybestos to ask about these shims and they said they do not fit my car, and I should buy new rotors and hubs.

Some people on the internets say "I just use tine foil and beer cans".

I think it's time for new hubs.

mark your words
http://forums.carmudgeons.com/showpo...6&postcount=70

I would try a regular shim, modify with a Dremel tool before biting the bullet on new hubs.

Or Clyde's plan

I'm of the off the shelf shimstock and some tin snips approach. There is nothing fancy about hub shims.

At least try it and if the improvement is good you can "fix it right" with a new hub sometime in the future

I'm happy to experiment. Can you guys point me to an "off the shelf shim"?

The hubs do have 180k miles on them so replacing them isn't exactly a waste. But I wouldn't mind testing a shim first.

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-shims

I'd start on McMaster

They need to be tapered though. I'm not seeing anything that can work, because the tapered are square and wood or composite.

I will call them Monday and ask.

Update:

Took it to my regular bmw indie (who did NOT put the latest set in). They confirmed that it was what they thought of as good quality. They suggested I contact the seller and try to score a new set from them... I just couldn't be bothered. Car was at shop already for its annual oil change, look over and a new tensioner (grr...). They didn't recommend but said that they could have someone resurface them. I said do it. Had them uninstall, resurface ($75 each) and reinstall the fronts. There may be some rear warping, but this took off almost all of the pulse. A total of $300 later, car is a pleasure to drive now.

I didn't spend hours arguing and chasing Zimmerman and whatever low margin online seller I used (I think oembimmerparts.com). I didn't need to have the parts come in again, book another appointment and get to the shop and drop off the car again. All done.

Based on the pulse, I plan to drive gently (rather than do what I thought was necessary and brake repeatedly almost to the point of smoking but never stopping).

Are the rotors more than $75 new?

Problem is, if the pulsing is caused by the rotor being mounted out of alignment (wheel bearing) and they resurfaced the rotors while *off* the car, the problem will just come back in a few thousand miles.

I have the brake runout gauge if you want to measure it some time. Kind of a far trip, but...

I still haven't gotten around to installing my new wheel bearings yet to see if it actually helps.