Low-down on Inspection II?
 

Ok guys, what's the low-down on Inspection II? Who gets it done at the dealership?

Here is what I'm seeing that is done:

Things to actually be changed or repalced:

• Oil and filter
• Air cleaner element
• Microfilter
• Brake Fluid (every 2 yrs)
• Coolant Flush (every 4 yrs)

Things to be "inspected" (looked at) for wear:

• Transmission, rear axle, and half shafts
• Fuel tank system and lines
• Exhaust
• Power steering system
• Play in steering, wheel bearing, and tie rods
• Brake pad thickness, rotor thickness, rotor condition, and hydraulic lines
• E-brake actuation and tire air pressure
• Engine code reading
• Radiator and coolant system
• Windshield washer and anti-freeze protection
• Check battery charge
• Verify electrical system is working (lights, guages, etc.)
• Reset Service Indicator

According to my car's service history, I'm good on the brake fluid and radiator flush for another year, min.

So, it's changing oil and replacing a couple filters, plus the inspection stuff. I think I can look at things well enough to tell if they are cracked, worn, or leaking (as it seems to be with most of the inspection stuff. The only thing I can't do (or can I?) is reset the service indicator.

Independent shops are quoting $600+ for the service. My local dealership is quoting $525.

Is it still recommended to take it into the dealership for the code reading and service indicator reset? Is there a way I can do that myself?

There is a Nintendo-like way of resetting the service indicator via the OBC stalk. Search bimmerfest. It may even be here.

Personally, I wouldn't pay someone to "inspect" anything.

IIRC there is a way to reset the indicator...maybe search bimmerfest. (edit: mbr beat me to it.)

I had an independent shop do my inspection 2 on my old e46 - saved a lot of money, about half the price.

Ed

I hadn't logged on to Bimmerfest in a few months, so I did the search for you.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...vice+indicator

I did my 'inspections" myself. Very satisfying, and you know it's done RIGHT. Well.. if you know what you're doing. :ack:

And personally, I believe coolant and brake fluid changes are a one-year item, minimum. Especially with how crappy E36 and E46 cooling system parts are.

:eeps:

I don't know if my coolant has ever been changed.

:eeps:

Makes more sense to just change the coolant when the radiator falls off. :p

Yeah, I used to be anal about stuff like that, as you get older, you just follow the manufacurer's schedule......(if that :))

Ed

Thanks a lot guys! Big help. I think I'll definitely do the 60k myself especially if I can reset the service interval thingy.

BTW, does that method for resetting the service interval still apply for '03 cars? It seems there are two methods:


Finally, any reason to get the diagnostic pulled from the dealer? No lights are showing up on my dash at all. I know the computers can store minor error codes but if no warning lights are showing up on the dash is there any reason to bring the car in?

Thanks again!

While not worth the trip just for an indicator reset, I have the extended AutoEnginuity scan tool which can read / test many of the same systems the BMW shop computer can, as well as display live data (complete list here). So if you're somewhat near the NY/NJ/CT area and want to meet up to diagnose your BMW, drop me an email.

I've rebuilt enough calipers in my life on cars that never had the brake fluid flushed - never again. $10 in brake fluid versus new / rebuilt calipers?

Although Nick makes a good point. Might as well just wait for the radiator to fall apart, or wait for the expansion tank to crack, then do a coolant flush. :ack: Still shocking that after all this time BMW can't get it right...

Shit. I may have to buy that...

Well, if you want to play with it first, I could probably be convinced to drive down there sometime.

Would it fit in the atom? :D

Yup. But I need to have a successful contusion to the registration process first :irate:.

I don't think a contusion is what you want. :ack:

I'm completed contused.

Alex

You don't want to know how badly I want to deliver a contusion (or three) to the MVC folks :D

I can believe it, it must be very frustrating.

But in buying this car, you asked for it. :D

The issue is, I got pre-approval from the MVC! And every time I call on the phone, they go "yes, you just need to bring X to location Y", but when I get there, the people never heard of X, don't do registrations at that location, or so on...

OK HOLY SHIT. Inspection II for the E36

Dealer $1050

My Fav Independent $750

Does that included a wax job. I hate BMW's sometimes!!

:eek: :ack:

Makes the $1K extended service plan seem VERY cheap.

The stealer only charged me c. 700 for an inspection II on my E36 M3. Was still a ripoff, but not quite as bad a ripoff.

My opinion >> if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

If thats true then how can two dealers be so different? Can they actually charge whatever they want depending on the demographic or do you honestly think it went up that much in the three or so years since you had your car.

I just made and appointment with my independant dealer I always work with. Good thing this only happens every 30K!!

How come every year I get my property tax bill I seem to find some other fun thing needing attention at the same time. haha

Just wrote that check tonight also.

Btw, FC that pic of your dog is to cute.

Dunno. Might have changed. Your dealer might charge a higher labor rate than mine did.

At least the property tax bill is deductible.

:D

Any interest in a tech session one of these days?

I'm always up for it.

Let me know, and if I have time, I'll bring my ultra-fancy code reader...

Just got mine done a few weeks back. Was in the $1K range at an independent. I knew this place wasn't cheap before I took it there, but I knew the car was in very good hands and I needed a bit of extra close inspection of the suspension and frame to make sure the car was track-worthy after the two times it's been banged up.

Sounds great!

DO

IT

YOUR

SELF.

:D

It is uber-satisfying. And doesn't an inspection 2 include a fuel filter, and spark plugs, too? If not, it should.

JV

Well some of the items mentioned by local shop were:

Change oil, filter, diff fluid, trans fluid, plugs and pollen filter.
Check like almost everything. Brakes, rotor's etc

Plus this shop does an entire engine detail at every big service. The last time I got the car back from an inspection 1, the engine compartment was spotless.

I am doing a couple of DIY's in the next coming weeks.
I am changing the slip ring in the steering column and replaceing a worn power seat back gear on the passanger side that has given up the ghost.

I've picked up all the necessary pieces for the Inspection II on the E46. I'll be doing it myself. After reading through what needs to be done it seems fairly straight forward. And the other things that need to be "inspected" seem to largely be to look if it's cracked or leaking. I think I can do that. My only question is on the rotor thickness. Where do I find out how much rotor thickness needs to remain for the rotor to remain within spec?

Oh, also, is there a good central jacking point on the front half of the car? It'd be nice to get the front wheels off the ground to check for bearing play and what not. But when I checked with a BMW tech they said you should only lift the car by the jacking pads on the sides. . . . a problem if I want to put a jack stand there.

I found this on the madrussian.net site, which seems to be a reasonably good resource for a few things.

My car doesn't have that.

Does the E46 not have the same crossmember (NOT the cross-BRACE) that the E36 had? That's where I jacked my E36.

You don't want the wheels off to check bearing play.

Check the rotor thickness with a calipers or a micrometer (if you have one). The minimum thickness is cast onto the rotor, but it should also be in the bentley manual. Or do a search on bimmerforums - it should be up there.

I have an xi, and I have a support member there. I think it is a difference between AWD and non-AWD cars.

In case it wasn't a good spot to jack from (some people have reported dimpling some metal) I had my jack stands ready and had an assistant. I jacked the car up and he slid the stands under the side jack points, and I then backed off the jack in short order.

Aaaarrgh. Ok, another question (thanks with all the help guys) regarding the oil. After perusing bimmerfest and following this link from a thread I'm now greatly confused about the oil usage for the standard E46.

Its soundling like (according to the link) the Mobil 1 5w30 is too thin and not recommended by BMW, but that Mobil 1 0w40 is ok. Is this information still accurate? If I can use the Mobile 1 it would be great as it's readily available in my area.

When I checked the Mobil1 website and ran through their "what's right for my car?" process it came up with Mobil 1 0W40 as well. Am I good to go with this?