Which torque wrench:

[rumatt]

All 1/2 drive, primarily used for wheels, but also other stuff. I currently have a beam type torque wrench, which works fine but is a pain for quick wheel swaps.

1) SK, 10-150 ft lbs (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SK-74151.html)

2) SK, 20-250 ft lbs (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SK-74251.html)

3) Craftsman 20-150 from local flyer. $59


I'm thinking 1). 90 ft lbs is still near the upper middle of the range so it should be fine, and having a lower range might make it more accurate for lower torque jobs. I know that near the bottom of the range they're not as accurate.

Suggestions?

[clyde]

You'll need 108 ft-lbs when you get the RX-8.

[rumatt]

You'll need 108 ft-lbs when you get the RX-8.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

[Jason C]

The SK is great for people not turning wrenches for a living, and especially for ham-fisted weekend mechanics. The click on those are much more noticeable than the Snap-On torque wrenches. If you're doing other (smaller) jobs I'd go with #1.

[operknockity]

A bunch of us SoCal folks have the SK 74151 (20-150 ft-lb) models or the KD Tool equivalent. Some also have the Craftsman/Husky/etc. equivalents. And there is one FACOM owner.

Some of us also have a smaller wrench for those smaller jobs like torquing down the oil filter housing cover and the various oilpan/tranny/diff/etc. fill and drain bolts.

Or should I have said "do a search" :)

[rumatt]

Or should I have said "do a search" :)

Hey, I asked a very specific question. :flipoff:


:P

[operknockity]

Or should I have said "do a search" :)

Hey, I asked a very specific question. :flipoff:


:P
Asked and answered several times.... Do a search :mad:

[bren]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)

http://content.sears.com/data/product_images/009/44597/00944597000-dlv.jpg

[operknockity]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)
Just remember that torque wrenches do not come with the normal Sears Craftsman Lifetime replacement warrantee.

[rumatt]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)


Why?

[Jason C]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)


Why?

So you can shock-test the digital components on your garage floor. :P

[bren]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)


Why?
It stays nice an long for good leverage and it's very easy/fast to set.

Those twist type wrenches get shorter the more torque you need....never made sense to me.

[clyde]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)
Just remember that torque wrenches do not come with the normal Sears Craftsman Lifetime replacement warrantee.

I exchanged that one long after the 90 day warranty expired without a problem...and without a receipt.

Me: "Hi, I need to exchange this, it's broken."
Sears Stooge: "Go grab another one."
Me: grabs another one.
Sears Stooge: looks at the old one, looks at the new one, types some stuff on his register, puts a sticker on the new one and sends me on my way
Me: "Thanks."

[operknockity]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)
Just remember that torque wrenches do not come with the normal Sears Craftsman Lifetime replacement warrantee.

I exchanged that one long after the 90 day warranty expired without a problem...and without a receipt.

Me: "Hi, I need to exchange this, it's broken."
Sears Stooge: "Go grab another one."
Me: grabs another one.
Sears Stooge: looks at the old one, looks at the new one, types some stuff on his register, puts a sticker on the new one and sends me on my way
Me: "Thanks."I have not heard as many stories of folks being able to exchange them as I have of folks being told that they are SOL when they attempt to return one. Many have reported that they were told that torque wrenches are considered "pro" tools and hence do not come with the same warrantee that regular tools (eg those used by us weekend warriors). Obviously, YMMV.

[clyde]

None of the above.

Get this one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 944597000&tab=des#tablink)
Just remember that torque wrenches do not come with the normal Sears Craftsman Lifetime replacement warrantee.

I exchanged that one long after the 90 day warranty expired without a problem...and without a receipt.

Me: "Hi, I need to exchange this, it's broken."
Sears Stooge: "Go grab another one."
Me: grabs another one.
Sears Stooge: looks at the old one, looks at the new one, types some stuff on his register, puts a sticker on the new one and sends me on my way
Me: "Thanks."I have not heard as many stories of folks being able to exchange them as I have of folks being told that they are SOL when they attempt to return one. Many have reported that they were told that torque wrenches are considered "pro" tools and hence do not come with the same warrantee that regular tools (eg those used by us weekend warriors). Obviously, YMMV.

The lifetime guarantee is only on their simple handtools and the torque wrenches are considered "precision" tools and covered by a 90 day warranty. While everyone that works there seems to know that there is a lifetime guarantee on the simple handtools, that doesn't mean they can all make the distinction.

My mileage does vary with the RX-8, btw. ;)

[operknockity]

My mileage does vary with the RX-8, btw. ;)
As does mine on my bimmer and all the other cars I have owned :kekeke:

[Plaz]

You'll need 108 ft-lbs when you get the RX-8.

Why would he need a torque wrench with a higher torque capacity than the engine?

:eeps: :outtaher:

[Jason C]

You'll need 108 ft-lbs when you get the RX-8.

Why would he need a torque wrench with a higher torque capacity than the engine?

:eeps: :outtaher:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[Plaz]

3) Craftsman 20-150 from local flyer. $59


If that's this one, I have it, and it's worked well enough for me.

:dunno:

http://content.sears.com/data/product_images/009/44594/00944594000-dlv.jpg

[clyde]

You'll need 108 ft-lbs when you get the RX-8.

Why would he need a torque wrench with a higher torque capacity than the engine?

:eeps: :outtaher:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

you think he's the first?

[Fair!]

For track/solo2 people, I would recomend:

1) Buy a lower cost clicker torque wrench for doing wheels (but not "wal-mart cheap"). Craftsman cheap.

2) Buy a better quality torque wrench for doing everything else (or more than one, to cover more tq ranges)

Note 1: Never use your "good" tq wrench on wheels! You torque what? 40 lugs a weekend to ~100 ft-lbs... that's a lot of cycles for a tq wrench.

Note 2: Always use a high temp anti-sieze (http://www.heavydutystore.com/db/product.php?productid=18141) on lug studs to ensure tq measurements are accurate! Dry studs take more tq to get them as tight as lubed threads. They also gall/strip far more easily. Dry studs are a recipe for disaster. You don't have to reapply every time you have the lugs off, just make sure they don't get dry.

http://www.heavydutystore.com/db/thumbs/t_18141_01.jpg

Note 3: Obvious, but I see people break this rule ALL the time. ALWAYS store your adjustable clicker style tq wrench on the lowest setting (like zero). Leaving them set to a higher setting for long periods will make the internal spring get a "set" and lose accuracy faster.

I use a $75 Craftsman unit for wheels and a better one (SK, SnapOn, or Craftsman Pro) for everything else (suspension bolts, engine bolts, etc).

my $3.50...

[Plaz]

Obvious, but I see people break this rule ALL the time. ALWAYS store your adjustable clicker style tq wrench on the lowest setting (like zero). Leaving them set to a higher setting for long periods will make the internal spring get a "set" and lose accuracy faster.

:eeps:

I think my Craftsman's been set at 88 ft.-lbs. for about a year.

:speechle:

[rumatt]

Dry studs take more tq to get them as tight as lubed threads.

Uh oh. I've seen this debate before in a different forum. It got ugly quickly. :eeps:

[Plaz]

Dry studs take more tq to get them as tight as lubed threads.

Uh oh. I've seen this debate before in a different forum. It got ugly quickly. :eeps:

A debate regarding dry vs. lubed studs? Was it a car forum, or a Mets forum? :lol:

[rumatt]

or a Mets forum? :lol:

:mad: :flipoff:

[Jason C]

Obvious, but I see people break this rule ALL the time. ALWAYS store your adjustable clicker style tq wrench on the lowest setting (like zero). Leaving them set to a higher setting for long periods will make the internal spring get a "set" and lose accuracy faster.

:eeps:

I think my Craftsman's been set at 88 ft.-lbs. for about a year.

:speechle:

Damn. I ain't allowing this guy in my shop. :P :)

[rumatt]

I think my Craftsman's been set at 88 ft.-lbs. for about a year.

What a n00b. Have you checked lately if all 4 of your bling-bling wheels are still attached? :mad:

[Plaz]

I think my Craftsman's been set at 88 ft.-lbs. for about a year.

What a n00b. Have you checked lately if all 4 of your bling-bling wheels are still attached? :mad:

Come to think of it, the ride seemed a little bumpy after that sweeper this morning, and the car was pulling and leaning to the right quite a bit. I thought something might have been awry when I saw all those sparks in the rear-view, but since there were no dash lights illuminated, I figured I was okay. :lol:

What do I know... it's my first torque wrench. (I don't deny the noob thing.)

How far off do you suppose it is now? Is it worthless?

[Jason C]

How far off do you suppose it is now? Is it worthless?

They can be recalibrated.

[John V]

I have the Stanley 250ft-lbs wrench. It's the same as the Husky. I haven't had it calibrated in the two years I've had it. There are metrology shops that can re-calibrate precision instruments for a fee. I used to have the shop at work do it years ago. My beam-type wrench was within 5% even at low values and after years of abuse, and my click type is easily within 10ft-lbs of that wrench.

The Stanley / Husky one is VERY well made. My brother has the Craftsman version, similar to Clyde's, and it's just not quite as nice. I don't know how that translates into accuracy, though. :)

[blee]

I built my S14 with a 3/8" Craftsman torque wrench. I also have a 1/2" Craftsman unit for wheels and other higher-tq applications.

:dunno: From what I can tell, my engine's still running great.

[dan]

I built my S14 with a 3/8" Craftsman torque wrench. I also have a 1/2" Craftsman unit for wheels and other higher-tq applications.

:dunno: From what I can tell, my engine's still running great.

psst...it's not your engine any more :speechle:


:flipoff:

[blee]

:cry: