How to shop for a tow vehicle?

[Biggins]

I did a search on this and other message boards (whose responses I don't always trust), but with truck/SUV prices plummeting each day, I've been contemplating picking up a lightly used truck/SUV to use as a tow vehicle. I hate making such a vague thread, but I really don't know what to look for... I guess this is "waffling?"

First of all, no, I'm not going to use my 318 to tow anything.

The main uses for the tow vehicle would be to tow an open aluminum trailer holding a 3000MAX lbs. automobile, a jetski/possibly two, and a utility trailer weighing no more than 2000 lbs. fully loaded. I seriously doubt I would ever be towing cross-country, but I would be towing over the MD/WV/VA/PA Appalachians from time-to-time. Could I consider a full-size 2wd truck/SUV or should I only consider a full-size 4wd truck/SUV? My father has a 2005 Tundra V8 that seems like it could meet my requirements, but would any compact pickups/SUVs still fit my bill (Tacoma, Dakota, Jeep GC, Exploder, etc)? Although they are awfully ugly, I like the convenience of an Avalanche/Ridgeline type vehicle now with a dog moreso than a single cab pickup.

What would you guys recommend or do you think you could point me in the right direction?

[ff]

I'm no expert on towing, but I'll offer up some obvious comments

1) 2WD trucks typically have a higher tow rating than an otherwise comparable 4WD. So that would be one advantage to going that route. And that would be fine if you never wanted to leave the blacktop, and never had to drive in the slippery stuff. But me personally, I'd still much rather have 4WD. You just never know when you might need that extra traction, like when pulling a boat up a wet boat ramp. Or extracting yourself from a snow-filled ditch after trying to impress all the car drivers with how fast you can drive on glare ice with your manly pickup/SUV. ;)

2) Stay away from the Ridgeline. It's FWD. It's not a real truck.

3) I have a feeling that the previous Gen Tundra might do OK for light duty, but I'd focus my search on 1/2 ton Ford or GM pickups that are going to be tougher and probably cheaper to buy.

4) I would consider looking at the Nissan Titan. We owned an Armada (shares a lot with the Titan) for 37,000 miles, and the only issue we had was with 4 warped rotors, which Nissan replaced for free after the warranty had expired. The Titan V8 is a gem, and it's rated to tow a lot. Somewhere north of 9000 lbs.

[clyde]

If you might be using boat ramps, get 4WD without question. There's rarely more than a tiny difference in rated tow capacity between 2WD and 4WD. If you have that little headroom that the difference matters, you need more truck.

The last gen Tundra might be enough, but it might not. If it wasn't bought with towing in mind, it probably isn't a great choice. Which specific model it is matters, what kind of towing package it came with (if it came with one) matters, what it's rated tow capacity in that config matters, and what its Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating matters.

I know a few people that have done a lot of towing with the Ridgeline and have been very happy with it. And it's 4WD, not FWD. It's a unibody, not body on frame, though.

I've been plenty happy with the Aramda for towing so far. No problems towing the Boxster on a heavyish open 18' steel full deck through the same mountains you're talking about.

If I had it to do over today (as compared to November 2006), I'd buy a 3/4 ton Suburban, though, for its additional payload capacity...and the fact that used GMT900s are a LOT less $$$ than what they were brand new back then.

You'd probably be okay with any domestic full size 1/2 ton so long as it was originally configured for towing.

Lots of people tow with less capable vehicles, but it only takes one incident to kill you (or scare you enough to never do whatever it was you were doing again).

[ff]

I know a few people that have done a lot of towing with the Ridgeline and have been very happy with it. And it's 4WD, not FWD. It's a unibody, not body on frame, though.

It's a FWD layout, and is only powering the front wheels until slip occurs if I'm not mistaken.

And it is unibody, but the rear half is reinforced with an integrated closed-box frame. Not that it really matters, because it's still one of the last pickups that I would ever consider for towing.

[3LOU5]

If you might be using boat ramps, get 4WD without question. There's rarely more than a tiny difference in rated tow capacity between 2WD and 4WD. If you have that little headroom that the difference matters, you need more truck.

The last gen Tundra might be enough, but it might not. If it wasn't bought with towing in mind, it probably isn't a great choice. Which specific model it is matters, what kind of towing package it came with (if it came with one) matters, what it's rated tow capacity in that config matters, and what its Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating matters.

I know a few people that have done a lot of towing with the Ridgeline and have been very happy with it. And it's 4WD, not FWD. It's a unibody, not body on frame, though.

I've been plenty happy with the Aramda for towing so far. No problems towing the Boxster on a heavyish open 18' steel full deck through the same mountains you're talking about.

If I had it to do over today (as compared to November 2006), I'd buy a 3/4 ton Suburban, though, for its additional payload capacity...and the fact that used GMT900s are a LOT less $$$ than what they were brand new back then.

You'd probably be okay with any domestic full size 1/2 ton so long as it was originally configured for towing.

Lots of people tow with less capable vehicles, but it only takes one incident to kill you (or scare you enough to never do whatever it was you were doing again).

Nicely said.

You really don't have any "real" weight to tow back there, so I think you'd be fine with Tacoma or other like-sized truck. However, you mentioned that you'd be going up and down hills of the Appalachians, so I'd move a size up, like 1/2-ton rigs such as a Chevrolet Silverado or Ford F150 (Never been a Dodge fan).

This is sorta what I was dealing with when we were getting a boat. Our Odyssey was barely capable of towing it; i.e. just under its towing weight limits. Getting my 1/2-ton ensures a bigger safety factor, and we're completely happy with it.

Oh, and I echo the boat ramp thing. Steep, wet ramps require 4WD.

[bren]

Pay very close to attention to GCVW.

You want as long wheelbase as you can stand to own for stability. The bigger engines make pulling up long grades easier but aren't really necessary so long as you are never in a hurry. Trucks equipped with tow packages typically have much needed aux. trans. coolers among other things you'd want/need.

[Biggins]

Thanks for all the helpful information... it's makes sorting through the BS on other forums a little easier. I think I'm going to go look at a few trucks this weekend, but I don't think I'm seriously going to consider one just yet. At least this gives me an idea of things to look for... I did not even think about needing 4wd for boat ramps.

I can definitely see what you're saying about the less capable vehicles by my frequent visits to Summit Point and even autocrosses.

[kognito]

what other forums are you looking at?? truck forums, or trailer forums??

At truck forums you will read from idiots towing hot shot pulling 30K pounds with a half ton and saying stuff like "it pulls great"

GCVW is the most important, and remember that a truck full of people and "stuff" is weight that you have to subtract from your capability.

Wheel base is very important, as long as you know the length/weight of what you will be towing. Just keep "tail wagging the dog" in the back of your mind.

Once you have selected a vehicle, then check out the truck forums for that vehicle. I owned an Trailblazer that was supposed to be able to pull 5500 pounds, but I went through 2 transmissions towing our 3000 pound boat.

due to changes in our lifestyle, and new toys, I have been through an F150, a GMC 2500HD, an F350 dually, and now an F550 (in just the past 4 years!!) So take it from me, if you think you might tow more in the next year or two, buy something bigger now!!

If you need to add a brake controller for trailer brakes, Ford and Chevy's are much easier to add a controller to than Dodge/others. With Ford and Chevy you can usually get a harness for the controller to plug right in. The others usaully require wire splicing.

[bren]

If you need to add a brake controller for trailer brakes, Ford and Chevy's are much easier to add a controller to than Dodge/others. With Ford and Chevy you can usually get a harness for the controller to plug right in. The others usaully require wire splicing.
Dodge (at least on my 06) has a pigtail under the dash for the brake controller. I was able to get a plug-n-play harness with the Prodigy, no splicing necessary.

I know Ford, and maybe even Chevy, are now offering a built in brake controller, which is probably really nice. Although, the Prodigy wasn't very expensive and it works great for me.

[lupinsea]

Pretty much echoing what these other guys have said.

It doesn't sound like you'll be towing a lot of weight: 3000 lb. car + trailer = probably 5,000 lb.

But as been pointed out, running tow rigs at their limit probably isn't wise. It might be ok on flat lad but if you're going up and down mountains? Best to step up a little higher in capacity.

If it wasn't for that car + car trailer requirement then you could probably get away with a 2000 - 3500 lb. tow rating.

Oh, and you might need to add a transmission cooler. I think they are about $50 - $100 and attach to the front of your radiator. Just unclamp the existing transmission cooler lines from the radiator and attach to the new tranny cooler.

Which reminds me: automatic transmissions often have higher tow ratings than manuals. With manuals it can be tough to get started and easy to burn out the clutch.

[kognito]

Dodge (at least on my 06) has a pigtail under the dash for the brake controller. I was able to get a plug-n-play harness with the Prodigy, no splicing necessary.

I know Ford, and maybe even Chevy, are now offering a built in brake controller, which is probably really nice. Although, the Prodigy wasn't very expensive and it works great for me.

I know Dodge had been talking about doing that for a long time, nice to hear they finally added the wiring.

I had a prodigy in my F150 and carried it over to the GMC2500. Great controller!

[kognito]

But as been pointed out, running tow rigs at their limit probably isn't wise. It might be ok on flat lad but if you're going up and down mountains? Best to step up a little higher in capacity.

In the RV world, rule of thumb is that you want to have about 10% overhead on the rating number. I.E. if the truck is rated for 20K, your total wieght should be around 18K. This rule is because of the drag created by the frontal area of an RV. Depending on what you want to tow, keep frontal drag in mind.

That said, I am always amazed at what I see people towing, and towing with!!! I saw an older GM 3/4 ton pulling a 40 foot, 20K 5th wheel about a year ago, and I swear the the bed was buckling so much it looked like the truck was going to split in two!!




Oh, and you might need to add a transmission cooler. I think they are about $50 - $100 and attach to the front of your radiator. Just unclamp the existing transmission cooler lines from the radiator and attach to the new tranny cooler.



Good point, and while you are adding the cooler, it is also good to add a temp gauge for the tranny fluid.